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Chris, maybe I´m wrong, but as far as I can see, he two connectors have almost the same angle - about 93 degrees...
Also I was thinking that I´ve tried three connectors - standard, "Ghost" and this one - and they are all the same...
Don´t you think that maybe the problem could be in "another place"?
No, I think that someone bent all three connectors. I have included a drawing indicating where the approximate 85 degree angle should be. If you bend it too far (less than 85°) it will still work, but the trigger will be stiff.



Chris
 
Discussion starter · #22 ·
It´s very kind of you Chris, I really appreciate what you are doing.
I´ll try this and see what happens...
 
It´s very kind of you Chris, I really appreciate what you are doing.
I´ll try this and see what happens...
Thank you for the appreciation!

I was able to print a protractor and found that the correct angle is 85°, not 83°.
Sorry for the confusion.

Chris
 
Chris.... You're the man! Way to go the extra mile!

If there is still "no joy", I have found that some gen4 connector housings have a different angle and it's possible that a "housing swap" may help.
 
Chris.... You're the man! Way to go the extra mile!

If there is still "no joy", I have found that some gen4 connector housings have a different angle and it's possible that a "housing swap" may help.
Ed,

Thanks for the applause, I do appreciate it. This is a Gen3 pistol, but I guess the same thing could have happened with some of those parts. We'll see what the OP comes back with tomorrow. Stay tuned!

Chris
 
Hello all !!!
I´m new to this interesting forum and I´m glad to be here :)
I own three Glocks (a G21, a G17 and a G26), and I love them...
The last Glock I´ve bought is the G26. I´ve purchased the first two as brand new pistols, but the last one is a preowned one, so I´m not sure about its real condition.
I´m a little bit worried - well, maybe not just "a little bit" - about the "interface" between the connector an the trigger bar.
I took some pics so you can see the "problem".
In the the first one, the red arrow shows the proper way the two pieces should interact...
The second one shows the same point of contact, but in the way I´m not sure it should be.
The third is for you to compare.
What do you think guys?
The top picture looks like you pulled the trigger bar forward a bit after you took the slide off... The Connector snaps over a bit... Put the slide back on and rack it... see if it looks different...

Have you shot this new gun yet?

I would shoot it before I started bending connectors and stuff... especially if it dry fires correctly...
 
When ever I read (hear) about bending parts I get the willies .....


YMMV
 
Discussion starter · #28 ·
The top picture looks like you pulled the trigger bar forward a bit after you took the slide off... The Connector snaps over a bit... Put the slide back on and rack it... see if it looks different...

Have you shot this new gun yet?

I would shoot it before I started bending connectors and stuff... especially if it dry fires correctly...
Thank you for your answer :)
Yes, in the top picture, I´ve pulled the trigger bar forward a bit after taking the slide off... and yes, the connector snaps over...
If I do exactly the same with my other two Glocks (I mean, taking the slide off), I don´t need to pull the trigger bar forward so the connector snaps over, why is that?
Which could be the difference between this one and my other Glocks?
Although dry fires well (including the "reset feature"), I didn´t shoot this gun yet, I would like to be sure there is no problem before...
 
Discussion starter · #29 ·
Ed,

Thanks for the applause, I do appreciate it. This is a Gen3 pistol, but I guess the same thing could have happened with some of those parts. We'll see what the OP comes back with tomorrow. Stay tuned!

Chris
Hello Chris...
Well, the conector is now in the same angle but no changes...
Any idea?
 
Hello Chris...
Well, the conector is now in the same angle but no changes...
Any idea?
Can you send a new photo of the connector installed in the gun?

Chris
 
Discussion starter · #31 ·
You mean only of the trigger housing with the connector installed?
If so, I tell you that it has the same gap than yours (the one you showed me in the photo)
 
You mean only of the trigger housing with the connector installed?
If so, I tell you that it has the same gap than yours (the one you showed me in the photo)
What I wanted to know is the gap is the same. If it is, then look at the photos below. These are taken of my fully functioning G19.

Photo 1, "FIRED", shows the position of the connector and the trigger bar after the gun was verified to be empty, trigger has been pulled, and the slide was removed. The connector is touching the trigger bar, and the trigger bar is fully to the rear.

Photo 2, "TRIGGER RESET", shows the position of the connector after the trigger bar is pushed forward. When this is done, the connector snaps into position over the nose of the trigger bar. If yours behaves this way and looks this way, then I think it is OK.

If you push the trigger bar forward and pull the trigger again, the connector will not move over to the left. This is because the connector is normally pushed over by the cam surface in the rear of the slide. Since the slide is removed, the cam action does not occur, but you can force the reset by pulling the trigger and then pushing the connector over to the left with your finger. When you do that, the trigger bar will pop up back into the position seen when you first removed the slide.





Does your pistol behave like mine does?

Chris
 
Discussion starter · #35 ·
What I wanted to know is the gap is the same. If it is, then look at the photos below. These are taken of my fully functioning G19.

Photo 1, "FIRED", shows the position of the connector and the trigger bar after the gun was verified to be empty, trigger has been pulled, and the slide was removed. The connector is touching the trigger bar, and the trigger bar is fully to the rear.

Photo 2, "TRIGGER RESET", shows the position of the connector after the trigger bar is pushed forward. When this is done, the connector snaps into position over the nose of the trigger bar. If yours behaves this way and looks this way, then I think it is OK.

If you push the trigger bar forward and pull the trigger again, the connector will not move over to the left. This is because the connector is normally pushed over by the cam surface in the rear of the slide. Since the slide is removed, the cam action does not occur, but you can force the reset by pulling the trigger and then pushing the connector over to the left with your finger. When you do that, the trigger bar will pop up back into the position seen when you first removed the slide.

View attachment 3356

View attachment 3357

Does your pistol behave like mine does?

Chris
You hit the bull´s eye !!! ;)
My friend, let me tell you that this time, your explanation describes exactly what it happens :eek:
Thank you very very much Chris, for safety reasons I was worried about this new pistol, but you have helped me a lot.
But for me, today´s lesson is to think (or to ask) before "touching"; I broke the standard connector trying to bend it.
I´ve also bended the one which is installed now (3,5 factory Glock), I only hope it has no "fatigue damage" :(
 
You hit the bull´s eye !!! ;)
My friend, let me tell you that this time, your explanation describes exactly what it happens :eek:
Thank you very very much Chris, for safety reasons I was worried about this new pistol, but you have helped me a lot.
But for me, today´s lesson is to think (or to ask) before "touching"; I broke the standard connector trying to bend it.
I´ve also bended the one which is installed now (3,5 factory Glock), I only hope it has no "fatigue damage" :(
POL,

You are welcome, I'm happy (and relieved) that we were able to solve the problem.

Chris
 
Another problem solved by the great members here at GLOCK.Pro
 
I just love happy endings ......
 
Interesting thread-- 4 pages in 2 days!!! Looks like the conclusion is that it wasn't the angle of the OP's connector-- all the pics of the intact receiver whether it's Chris' or the OP's, shows the normal position of the trigger bar with the connector.

If the slide was on, this is what the parts would look like, it just depends on which phase of the slide's cycle you're in. In Chris' first picture, this is what the trigger bar does after the slide is all the way back during recoil. That cam pushes the connector to the left, and the trigger bar is raised just a hair by the trigger housing spring. This is so the firing pin lug can catch the cruciform part of the trigger bar when the slide cycles back into battery.

When your trigger finger moves forward to trigger reset that "SNAP" you hear is the connector snapping to the right, shown in Chris' second picture. In an intact pistol, instead of your finger pushing the whole trigger bar forward, it's the firing pin lug pushing the trigger bar.

Chris (cohland) -- since you're the god of Awesome Pictures, do you have a pic of the slide with the cam surface? It'll solidify what you were explaining.
 
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