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the connector and the trigger bar "interface" (problem?)

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52K views 51 replies 9 participants last post by  POL  
#1 ·
Hello all !!!
I´m new to this interesting forum and I´m glad to be here :)
I own three Glocks (a G21, a G17 and a G26), and I love them...
The last Glock I´ve bought is the G26. I´ve purchased the first two as brand new pistols, but the last one is a preowned one, so I´m not sure about its real condition.
I´m a little bit worried - well, maybe not just "a little bit" - about the "interface" between the connector an the trigger bar.
I took some pics so you can see the "problem".
In the the first one, the red arrow shows the proper way the two pieces should interact...
The second one shows the same point of contact, but in the way I´m not sure it should be.
The third is for you to compare.
What do you think guys?

Image


Image


Image
 
#13 ·
I can tell you what the problem is. The leg of the connector has been bent so that the connector is flat. The connector leg should have a small bend in it so that it protrudes from the side of the trigger mechanism housing, pushing against the trigger bar when everything is in position. Just bend the connector so that it looks like these photos:





Chris
 
#15 ·
You are welcome.

I have personally taken a new connector, inspected it, and then bent it to fit flat in the housing. Then later I learned I had done the wrong thing. This is not uncommon, the connector does look odd unless it fits flush in the housing.

Please do let me know when you have the connector adjusted and the pistol reassembled. I am certain that it will look correct and will also work correctly.

Chris
 
#18 ·
No, I would not do that. I can see from your photo that the connector is bent, it needs to have an angle of about 83 degrees. The one I see in your photo has an angle of about 92 degrees. If your connector looks exactly like this, the problem should be solved.



Chris
 
#20 ·
Chris, maybe I´m wrong, but as far as I can see, he two connectors have almost the same angle - about 93 degrees...
Also I was thinking that I´ve tried three connectors - standard, "Ghost" and this one - and they are all the same...
Don´t you think that maybe the problem could be in "another place"?
 
#21 · (Edited)
No, I think that someone bent all three connectors. I have included a drawing indicating where the approximate 85 degree angle should be. If you bend it too far (less than 85°) it will still work, but the trigger will be stiff.



Chris
 
#24 ·
Chris.... You're the man! Way to go the extra mile!

If there is still "no joy", I have found that some gen4 connector housings have a different angle and it's possible that a "housing swap" may help.
 
#25 ·
Ed,

Thanks for the applause, I do appreciate it. This is a Gen3 pistol, but I guess the same thing could have happened with some of those parts. We'll see what the OP comes back with tomorrow. Stay tuned!

Chris
 
#26 ·
Hello all !!!
I´m new to this interesting forum and I´m glad to be here :)
I own three Glocks (a G21, a G17 and a G26), and I love them...
The last Glock I´ve bought is the G26. I´ve purchased the first two as brand new pistols, but the last one is a preowned one, so I´m not sure about its real condition.
I´m a little bit worried - well, maybe not just "a little bit" - about the "interface" between the connector an the trigger bar.
I took some pics so you can see the "problem".
In the the first one, the red arrow shows the proper way the two pieces should interact...
The second one shows the same point of contact, but in the way I´m not sure it should be.
The third is for you to compare.
What do you think guys?
The top picture looks like you pulled the trigger bar forward a bit after you took the slide off... The Connector snaps over a bit... Put the slide back on and rack it... see if it looks different...

Have you shot this new gun yet?

I would shoot it before I started bending connectors and stuff... especially if it dry fires correctly...
 
#28 ·
Thank you for your answer :)
Yes, in the top picture, I´ve pulled the trigger bar forward a bit after taking the slide off... and yes, the connector snaps over...
If I do exactly the same with my other two Glocks (I mean, taking the slide off), I don´t need to pull the trigger bar forward so the connector snaps over, why is that?
Which could be the difference between this one and my other Glocks?
Although dry fires well (including the "reset feature"), I didn´t shoot this gun yet, I would like to be sure there is no problem before...
 
#32 ·
What I wanted to know is the gap is the same. If it is, then look at the photos below. These are taken of my fully functioning G19.

Photo 1, "FIRED", shows the position of the connector and the trigger bar after the gun was verified to be empty, trigger has been pulled, and the slide was removed. The connector is touching the trigger bar, and the trigger bar is fully to the rear.

Photo 2, "TRIGGER RESET", shows the position of the connector after the trigger bar is pushed forward. When this is done, the connector snaps into position over the nose of the trigger bar. If yours behaves this way and looks this way, then I think it is OK.

If you push the trigger bar forward and pull the trigger again, the connector will not move over to the left. This is because the connector is normally pushed over by the cam surface in the rear of the slide. Since the slide is removed, the cam action does not occur, but you can force the reset by pulling the trigger and then pushing the connector over to the left with your finger. When you do that, the trigger bar will pop up back into the position seen when you first removed the slide.





Does your pistol behave like mine does?

Chris
 
#40 · (Edited)
Interesting thread-- 4 pages in 2 days!!! Looks like the conclusion is that it wasn't the angle of the OP's connector-- all the pics of the intact receiver whether it's Chris' or the OP's, shows the normal position of the trigger bar with the connector.

If the slide was on, this is what the parts would look like, it just depends on which phase of the slide's cycle you're in. In Chris' first picture, this is what the trigger bar does after the slide is all the way back during recoil. That cam pushes the connector to the left, and the trigger bar is raised just a hair by the trigger housing spring. This is so the firing pin lug can catch the cruciform part of the trigger bar when the slide cycles back into battery.

When your trigger finger moves forward to trigger reset that "SNAP" you hear is the connector snapping to the right, shown in Chris' second picture. In an intact pistol, instead of your finger pushing the whole trigger bar forward, it's the firing pin lug pushing the trigger bar.

Chris (cohland) -- since you're the god of Awesome Pictures, do you have a pic of the slide with the cam surface? It'll solidify what you were explaining.
 
#41 · (Edited)
Interesting thread-- 4 pages in 2 days!!! Looks like the conclusion is that it wasn't the angle of the OP's connector-- all the pics of the intact receiver whether it's Chris' or the OP's, shows the normal position of the trigger bar with the connector.

If the slide was on, this is what the parts would look like, it just depends on which phase of the slide's cycle you're in. In Chris' first picture, this is what the trigger bar does after the slide is all the way back during recoil. That cam pushes the connector to the left, and the trigger bar is raised just a hair by the trigger housing spring. This is so the firing pin lug can catch the cruciform part of the trigger bar when the slide cycles back into battery.

When your trigger finger moves forward to trigger reset that "SNAP" you hear is the connector snapping to the right, shown in Chris' second picture. In an intact pistol, instead of your finger pushing the whole trigger bar forward, it's the firing pin lug pushing the trigger bar.

Chris (cohland) -- since you're the god of Awesome Pictures, do you have a pic of the slide with the cam surface? It'll solidify what you were explaining.
There was one photo from the OP the clearly showed that the connector was not sticking out of the trigger mechanism housing at an angle, it looked like it had been bent to be straight. That was confirmed by a photo of the connector. So I think the problem WAS the angle of the OP's connector.

Your explanation of the cam and the firing pin lug catching the cruciform reveals a whole lot more knowledge of the actual internal workings of this mechanism than I have. I really want to get a cutaway Glock so that I can understand all of this better. How did you figure that out? I learn better visually, maybe I'll just stare at the animation some more....

I do have a photo of the slide with the cam surface! Here it is, please tell me if this is annotated correctly, I would call that surface the "slide cam" but if you have heard a better description, please say so.



By the way, this photo is of a G35 slide with a red dot sight, if you were wondering what that weird thing was on the top of the slide.

Chris
 
#42 ·
I knew you had a pic, and you got the arrow at the right spot. You can see the cam's ramps to the left and to the right of the arrowhead. I used the Armorer's orange slide cover to inspect all the parts to get an idea what was happening. Now I'm not so sure about the connector angle any more, but I learned a whole lot in this thread. It's the whole point of being on this forum.

Wish I could take that Advanced Armorer's course, and I might have to get a red dot sight too...
 
#43 ·
Thanks! I've got an orange cover, I'll put it on and stare at it some more today. The animation helped, also. I am going to the Advanced Armorer's course when my current certificate expires, I think in one more year.

This rain has been crazy, I'm trying to get out to the range to check a sight adjustment on my STI 1911, but I'll be darned if I'll get soaked in the process.

Stay dry, maybe I'll see you at another Glock match this coming year.

Chris