[WalterGA]

You sure that's not a NY trigger spring? I've never viewed a NY spring from the top like that, but your trigger spring sure doesn't look like the trigger spring in my Gen 3 G26/G19/G20/G29/G21!!

 

[FloatPilot]

No telling.....

 

[Kennyddale]

I replaced the safety plunger with a Tungsten one. It smoothed it out quite a bit.

 

[Appalachained]

That trigger spring looks different. It's kinda hard to tell in the pic, but it looks like a bigger thicker coil than a standard trigger spring has.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[FloatPilot]

Well a stronger trigger bar spring actually helps pull the trigger.
Here is a photo

 

[Appalachained]

Yeah, that's a regular trigger spring. My bad.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[WalterGA]

It just didn't look right from the top view. Glad I chose the Gen 3, instead of 4!

 

[Otintx]

Rolled the first image over for a better perspective.

 

[OHgaz]

The copper flecks I understand but what are the light specks?
Also the connector looks like it's pretty rough right where the trigger bar make contact.

 

[FloatPilot]

White stuff can from a white rag. I could not see it with my eyes, but the camera sure shows it well.

Yes the connector is a real piece of poooo....
And it looks MUCH better now after I buffed the heck out of it with a bench mounted buffer. As stated earlier, it initially looked like a hack saw blade.
I had both the connector and the trigger bar polished , but after 100 more shots it looks like this. I will try to buff the edges, I am afraid of doing too much at once and goofing up the whole thing..

There were also all sorts of plastic slivers inside the gun. Plus the plastic around the trigger safety had plastic flashing hanging off and jamming up the trigger safety when I took it out of the box.

It is like somebody at Glock took total leave of their senses the day they made this one....

I need to find a descent complete trigger group to install.

 

[MtStream]

A factory Glock trigger is only $10, you can use a Gen3 trigger in a Gen4 gun. Aftermarket triggers will run $100+ and many (not all) are just polished factory parts. Some like the ZevTech or Pyramid triggers make some improvements like a flat face on the trigger or other small modifications. I use a ZevTech in my "unlimited" gun and enjoy it but I'm not sure I would spend that kind of money on a carry pistol.

Also, if you haven't called Glock you should. Don't e-mail they're terrible about e-mail but they will answer the phone and 99% of the time it will be someone who can help.

 

[Sumoj275]

My gen 4 17 is demonstrating the same crappy symptoms. I bought this 17 used so I have no idea what to think. I'm generally a tolerant trigger guy as I shoot a lot of revolver, 1911, and Glocks. A spring kit with a 6 lb firing pin spring hasn't helped much. I've done the 25 cent polish, and tried a Ghost Edge, RYG, factory ".", and an unpolished "-" connector with no real difference. I plan on polishing the cup and "-" connector this week. I'm at a loss after this except adding a gen 3 trigger bar. It is truly frustrating, now I know why I got a good deal on this Glock, the former owner is off Glocks due to the trigger crappiness, and I may just send the gun in and let Glock figure it out.

 

[Appalachained]

New Gen 4, G-19 trigger really stinks. Need ideas & help

My gen 4 17 is demonstrating the same crappy symptoms. I bought this 17 used so I have no idea what to think. I'm generally a tolerant trigger guy as I shoot a lot of revolver, 1911, and Glocks. A spring kit with a 6 lb firing pin spring hasn't helped much. I've done the 25 cent polish, and tried a Ghost Edge, RYG, factory ".", and an unpolished "-" connector with no real difference. I plan on polishing the cup and "-" connector this week. I'm at a loss after this except adding a gen 3 trigger bar. It is truly frustrating, now I know why I got a good deal on this Glock, the former owner is off Glocks due to the trigger crappiness, and I may just send the gun in and let Glock figure it out.

I haven't noticed any difference in the trigger after putting a gen3 trigger bar in a gen 4.
I have a 2.2# crisp, short reset trigger pull in my Gen4 17. You can make it as good as you want to make it.....almost. If triggers are more important to you, you should try a Walther PPQ or one of the other new offerings in the SFP market.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[cohland]

Here is something that you might check, an area that I inspect and shave back on almost all of the Glocks that I handle. If you look at the photo (below) you will see a red line against a surface of the Trigger Mechanism Housing (TMH). Inspecting the Connector and the TMH for friction, I install the Connector in the TMH and then push it in and out at the end, simulating cycling. Fairly often there is a catch or snag, where the edge of the Connector is rubbing against this surface in the TMH. My remedy is simple: shave back the surface so it no longer is a point of friction with the Connector. I usually do with this a plain old X-acto knife.

If you're seeing plastic shavings in the gun, maybe a source is the Connector rubbing against the TMH very badly. It's worth checking. I don't think that fixing this will have a bearing on Trigger pull, but it does have an effect on reset.

Chris

 

[Sumoj275]

I haven't noticed any difference in the trigger after putting a gen3 trigger bar in a gen 4.
I have a 2.2# crisp, short reset trigger pull in my Gen4 17. You can make it as good as you want to make it.....almost. If triggers are more important to you, you should try a Walther PPQ or one of the other new offerings in the SFP market.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I wish mine had a good 5.5 lb or non-gritty trigger, but 7 pound is hand gritty isn't acceptable on any maker or platform. If I wanted to have a good feeling striker fired I'd get the FNS like my fathers, but I don't care for the complicated internals, if I want complicated internals I might as well get a 1911 STI

 

[MtStream]

Sumoj275 - if you are ever in the Dallas area, I would be happy to look at it for you. I would recommend checking the area Chris pointed out. I've run into that issue before with a minus connector that fit one gun but barely clipped the edge on another. Unfortunately I had completely forgotten about it until now!

 

[Sumoj275]

Took the "-" connector and polished it up, polished trigger bar really good, and the trigger pin long ith chucking the safety plunger in the drill press and reprofile the Nile on the outside to approximate the angle of te Brownells ultimate as close as I could then polished. The g17 has a Wolff 6# trigger spring, a Glock stock firing pin, a Wolff lightened safety plunger spring, and the Glock "-" connector with a smoother feeling trigger. I like where it feels now, feels like a stock gen 3 trigger pull. I will shoot this week and verify as I bet it will feel better after 200 rounds. I appreciate all the help from this post, there is a lot of little things that do make a difference.

 

[AirborneVetPhil]

New Guy With Question Related to this thread

Hello, new guy here. I've read this entire thread. I've done almost all of the things mentioned here, save shaving the TMH.

My question is, how should a really good G19 Gen 4 trigger feel? I understand many of you have compared it to Gen 3's but I've never shot a Gen 3 and though my trigger has improved immensely it still does not "slide like glass" on its way back to actually going "bang".

Also the trigger comes to a minor "stop" and you know the next part of your trigger pull will make the gun go bang.

Is this the way with all Glocks? I have installed a Ghost 3.5 Ultimate trigger kit. Ghost by the has been very communitive but I'm still asking, what a good Glock 19, Gen 4 trigger SHOULD feel like? Thanks!

 

[cohland]

..My question is, how should a really good G19 Gen 4 trigger feel? I understand many of you have compared it to Gen 3's but I've never shot a Gen 3 and though my trigger has improved immensely it still does not "slide like glass" on its way back to actually going "bang"..

Not trying to be too evasive, but your definition of the term "good" is important.

To me, a good Glock trigger pulls at about 4 pounds, smoothly, and the gun will function flawlessly with all three safeties working reliably. You will feel the trigger safety release under your trigger finger, you'll feel the trigger bar push the firing pin safety up, and you'll feel the final compression of 30% of the firing pin spring travel as you press the trigger, just before the shot breaks.

That's also the cheapest Glock trigger, one with probably a 25-cent trigger job, with a Glock "dot" or "minus" connector installed.

One CAN, with enough special aftermarket parts and polishing, get a very, very light Glock trigger. To get to the very light trigger the parts will reduce the effectiveness of the Firing Pin Safety or remove it altogether, they will reduce the firing pin (striker) spring strength to the point that it may become unreliable (light primer strikes), and they will introduce things like a pinned trigger to eliminate pre-travel and a device or connector design to limit over-travel, not to mention a variety of connector designs.

These are nothing like a standard Glock trigger in "feel", in other words, but you can make them very light indeed, at the cost of reducing the effectiveness of some of the safeties and introducing a lot of additional cost.

If you are not wiling to sacrifice some safety and functionality, you are not likely to be able to get to that "slide like glass" trigger in a Glock.

If an excellent trigger is that important, allow me to suggest that you're working with the wrong gun: you'll find that goal a lot easier to reach with a 1911, although at much higher cost than the G19. The 1911 is also heavier, with less ammunition capacity, much more complicated, and bigger. It wasn't designed for the same mission as the G19, but the 1911 can have a truly excellent trigger. With very little initial slack, a good 1911 trigger will offer no creep, no perceptible rearward movement until the instant where the increasing pressure on the trigger releases the sear from the hammer, and it "breaks like glass".

I have a couple of 1911s, and I have done some work on the triggers to the point that they are delightful to shoot. However, when I carry, I carry a G19, because in the urgency of the moment when it may need to be used, I don't think I'll be musing about the trigger feel too much.

Chris

 

[AirborneVetPhil]

Hey Chris,

I have one Glock, 5 1911's, Sig P226 SSE, CZ72B, and more

So the Glock's trigger is just way different than anything I've shot. I'm sure along the way friends have had me shoot their G-?, but I just did not remember their trigger pull.

You very clearly explained why I was hitting false stops. I can live with it, just did not know it was normal, so I searched out this forum.

re: polishing:

I've been working with a well known company who have made suggestions and from whom I bought a few parts.

This morning I was talking to them and told them I had polished some parts. They cried bloody murder saying I probably ruined the gun. Now understand, I do things to pistols carefully and rarely go back over things and I was using a soft polishing wheel.

He said you should polish nothing because Glock puts some coating on their parts and as soon as you polish a part that coating comes off and it is now subject to pitting and whatever other things he said. Funny, though, my Dan Wesson parts aren't coated and the are in fine shape.

Do you or anyone know about this? I tried calling Glock but they were closed early today. Polishing did help a great deal and got rid of most of the sandy-ness feeling.

I've read here and other places where folks were changing out parts. I wonder if the new parts were coated?

If you or anyone here knows anything about what this guy was telling me I'd like to know. I'm pretty happy with the G-19 now and will shoot it tomorrow.

Thanks Chris, GREAT ANSWER!

Philip