G'Day from Vegas and welcome to Glock.Pro!

Since you are so new to the forum, it's difficult for us to be certain how to assist you. I'm going to stay conservative... There are more aggressive fixes for your gen4 G19 trigger, but I want to ease you in the right direction.

First, do a YouTube search for Glock gen4 25 cent trigger job.

Once that is complete, if that is not enough improvement, then try installing a Glock "-" trigger bar.

Finally, try inserting your trigger finger deeper into the trigger opening.

Once you have tried those, let us know how it's going for you...

 

I was initially contemplating a minus connector and a 6 pound trigger spring. However I then started to sift through the connector offerings from Ghost, Vanek and Lone wolf and Zev,,,
Since I saw all sorts of conflicting reviews.... I thought I would come here....,

 

It sounds to me like something in the gun is actually wrong.
1. Have you checked the positioning of the trigger spring to ensure it hasn't slipped off to the side?
2. What is the date on the envelope in the box with the empty casings inside? I know you just bought it but want to make sure it's not old, new stock. It's easier to check this date than to confirm the connector has the dot . on the back of it. But if you understand where the markings on the connector are, check to make sure it is a dot connector.
3. Does the connector look correct? It works like a spring and should lean out from the trigger housing (it should look like the connector on your other Glock)

Edit - I just re-read your post. You do need to check the marking on the connector to ensure you don't have a plus "+" connector. If you look at the back of the small arm that comes off of the trigger there should be a dot "." - this is the correct connector for a Gen4 (designed to not exceed 5.5lbs). If it has a + symbol it's an 8lb connector. A minus "-" symbol is 4.5lbs. If there's nothing it's a standard connector intended for pre-Gen4 pistols.

For your information if you decide to get a lighter connector (Glock or aftermarket), they are lighter but not as crisp as the dot connector. The "crispness" comes from the angle the connector forces the trigger down at. To get lighter the angle is reduced so the trigger doesn't feel as clean a wall and break. I'm not saying the lighter connector isn't as good or better, just different so you will need to decide what you prefer.

 

Hmm, The test round, which we Alaskans toss into the burn trash, was only dated a couple months ago.

Now that I have some spare time I took another good look under some lights.

Actually the trigger and trigger bar are dragging.

In my older Glocks there is a wee bit of clearance where the trigger bar runs along side the mag well. On this new gen 4, the trigger bar is a little bowed and rubs against the side of the plastic wall that makes up the mag well area.

On my older Glocks the trigger itself is smooth plastic and they move freely. This new gun has a trigger with a semi-rough appearing plastic finish and the trigger itself drags when being pivoted back and forth on its pin.
In my older Glocks when you release the trigger safety while the slide is removed, the trigger will snap back on the trigger spring.
This new gun requires me to actually help the trigger rearward on it's gritty travel.

The trigger bar is the one marked 3600-1 which is supposed to be there. But it is not very straight. Plus the cruciform area looks canted. The connector is the standard new one marked with the single dot for the gen 4s.

I need to do some work. There were plastic shavings stuck to the trigger group when I removed it. Little fine ones like thin hairs. Somebody was in a hurry when they put this one together.

 

New Gen 4, G-19 trigger really stinks. Need ideas & help

I have a new (2015) gen4 19. It's my EDC so it's staying stock. My first impression was the trigger was pretty heavy. I have Glocks with triggers as low as 2.1 lbs, but with this one I just changed the trigger bar for a 00357 (gen3 g17) and did a real heavy .25 trigger job on it. I got it down to 5.3 lbs.
Since then I've put 1500 rounds of 124gr FreedomMunitions reman FMJ, 500 rounds of Freedom 124 gr. Reman JHP and 150 rounds of Gold Dot 124gr. +p through it without issue. The trigger is pretty decent now.
Shooting the heavier trigger for the last six months has greatly improved my trigger control and my shooting over all.
Something I've noticed is I only noticed the heavier trigger when standing still shooting slowly at a paper target. When shooting for speed ( plate rack, drills, IDPA etc..) you don't even notice it.

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Installing a G17 trigger bar would be a good start. I like the Ghost Ultimate or LWD connectors, but don't know how well they work with Gen 4 Glocks; I only have Gen 3. My new Gen 3 G19 has a great trigger. i always install aftermarket connectors and polish every mating surface of the firing mechanisms before i even take one to the range.

 

Are the McNally triggers worth looking at ???????

 

If anyone has inside info on Glock triggers it is that guy.

McGlock Inc click here

I just am not comfortable, with any adjustable set screw that may decide not to let it go to the wall, the day I really need it to.

ymmv

 

I buffed the trigger bar, the striker safety, the connector and the striker. I have a nice shop, so they all look like mirrors.

One thing I found was that the bottom of the long part of the trigger bar was rough like a hack-saw blade when it left the factory. WTF??? It is like buying a Taurus.

Anyway it still has a 7.5 pound trigger pull, but at least it is now predictable. And of course you still have to go halfway forward before the trigger resets.

I agree about set screws. I do not want a set screw inside the trigger assembly of a carry gun.

 

Is it heavy the whole way or just after it hits the wall?

 

That looong reset would be troubling for me. One of Glock's features is a short reset, and i try to always shoot from the reset position, when possible. Could be that this particular Gen 4 is an anomaly. I'd definitely try aftermarket connectors, and i do agree about setscrews.

 

Well I had a few more minutes today.
This Gen 4 is weird. But maybe all Gen 4s are weird...

The trigger has about 4 pounds of pressure all the way to the break and then it tales about 7.25 to 7.75 pounds to break.

I compared to to a stock Gen 3 G-20 trigger on another of my Glocks. That had 2 pounds up to a clean break of 5.75 pounds.

AND GET THIS.......
If you partially pull the trigger on the new Gen 4, and then release the trigger, it does not move all the way forward again. It just stays partially pulled. It requires manually pushing it forward so the trigger safety will engage again.
And mind you,,, this is better after being polished than it was out of the box. Before it was like grinding coffee....

I should have bought a Gen 3. The gen 4 felt slightly smaller so I gave it an impulse buy. Now I have a $550 project gun.

There must be some sort of difference in the size or shape of the guts, because the gen 4 trigger bars are a separate item with all the dealers.

 

When the trigger is pulled partially on mine ( to any position short of the break )it does return to the starting position. I think there might be something not right with yours. My Gen4 triggers are heavier than my Gen3 triggers, but they're not 2 lbs. heavier.
There is a difference in the angle of the trigger housings in the gen4s, but both gen 3 or 4 trigger bars can be used in a gen 4.


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Keep updating information, it's helping paint a better picture of what you have. Based on this post, it sounds like you may have a problem in the firing pin channel. It's the firing pin that pushes the trigger forward to reset.

1. With a cleared weapon, pull the trigger and hold it to the rear. Shake the gun back and forth parallel to the ground. You should hear a clinking noise from the firing pin moving back and forth freely in the channel. If not, there's definitely something interfering with it's function.

2. Remove the firing pin and check that the seems where the cups meet are not aligned with the tag end of the spring.

3. Visually inspect the spring

4. There is a plastic sleeve inside the channel, this is very hard to inspect because it's not intended to come out. I would take a wooden dowel or something similar that is the diameter of the channel and give it a couple of taps to make sure the channel is all the way seated.

I have/had every Gen and version of the Glock 17 (I currently don't have Gen1 or RTF - mistakes) along with many other models. I didn't start out liking the Gen4 but it has earned a spot as my favorite model of Glock. I currently own every 9mm Gen4 model and wish they'd release a Gen4 17L so I could complete the collection. Unfortunately, there's something wrong with yours, but it's definitely not indicative of Glock or Gen4s. We'll solve it and I think you'll eventually love it.

 

The firing pin ( striker) moves back and forth freely when the trigger is held to the rear. It seems to move back and forth as much as the other non-goobered up Glocks.

 

If you want to put your trigger scale on the firing pin lug, mine averages 5lb 11oz.

 

The problem gun is 5 pounds and it stacks up to 5.25 towards the end. It is fairly smooth in the channel

 

Can you get a sheet of paper between the bar and your frame or is it pressed all the way against it?

Experimenting on two G4 full sized frames:
Frame 1 a single sheet of paper slips between the frame and trigger bar smoothly but two sheets binds
Frame 2 a single sheet binds but can be pushed through, can't get two sheets in

Since Frame 2 does not have an issue with the trigger pull, I would think to be so tight as to cause an issue a single sheet would not fit through.

Look to the other side of the cruciform where it rides in the trigger housing. Is the slot in the housing smooth? Anything that may be binding over there?

 

I will see if I can get photos to load up.

1. This Gen 4 gun has very thin plastic sides.
2. they put in three little ridges as a way to strengthen the side.
3. The trigger bar rubs against the ridges with zero space. Enough that it leaves marks in the plastic.
4. The sides are so thin that if you shoot left handed, the pressure from the left thumb flexes the plastic enough that it actually moves the trigger bar.
5. It may also be binding back in the trigger housing area.

 

You sure that's not a NY trigger spring? I've never viewed a NY spring from the top like that, but your trigger spring sure doesn't look like the trigger spring in my Gen 3 G26/G19/G20/G29/G21!!

 

No telling.....

 

I replaced the safety plunger with a Tungsten one. It smoothed it out quite a bit.

 

That trigger spring looks different. It's kinda hard to tell in the pic, but it looks like a bigger thicker coil than a standard trigger spring has.


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Well a stronger trigger bar spring actually helps pull the trigger.
Here is a photo

 

Yeah, that's a regular trigger spring. My bad.


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