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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
If you want to reduce the wall feel that some trigger kits have for a range gun...would you bevel the inside of the trigger bar curved tip that rolls over the lip of connector,also if so,would doing this lesson the reset snap upon return...or is it something else entirely...
 

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If you want to reduce the wall feel that some trigger kits have for a range gun...would you bevel the inside of the trigger bar curved tip that rolls over the lip of connector,also if so,would doing this lesson the reset snap upon return...or is it something else entirely...
I'm not sure what you are asking about - What I would interpret the first part of the question to be about is a different event than I would interpret the second part to be referring to.

I would have thought the first part "wall feel" to be referring to the second stage of the trigger pull. Where you can feel the trigger bar make contact with the connector, there's a fairly distinct change in the trigger. From that point on is the real weight of the trigger pull which you've been working on. I'm not sure how one would lessen that since it's when two parts make contact without also making the trigger so light it would be unsafe. i.e. you had your pull under 3lbs and I'm assuming you could still feel the "second stage."

The second part though, you ask about "beveling," "rolls over the lip" and "reset snap" - that leads me to believe you're referring to when the connector is pushed over by the slide which allows the trigger bar to raise back up in order to catch the firing pin lug. This happens during the slide cycle, which includes recoil so it happens during a pretty violent action. I'm not sure what kind of a "wall" you would be able to feel during that process.

Hope this can help you refine the question a bit.

You mention trigger kits - are you referring to one that has an over-travel stop?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yes I had the pull under 3# but I found the contact patch was smaller with new trigger install, showing only 2/3rds. Coverage between sear section n striker tab...gave me an uneasy feeling in the pit of my stomach. When I shoot this gun at the range it's like holding onto a stick of dynamite when it goes off....watched my son shoot it and it rises up 6" and he's been to the police academy...re-installed original 1704-1 trigger,although filed on a few times it still had a longer sear section and gave me full coverage contact patch w/3#9oz pull. I guess I've watched too many utube videos showing after market trigger systems performing like 1911's ...so I thought I would try reducing the wall or second stage of pull some to smooth it out...I like the 36 and its accuracy but hate the trigger....I must not be the only one because of the multitude of aftermarket trigger systems for sale...got feedback from Lone Wolf and they will see if they have received any new 1704-1 version of triggers yet.
 

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Yeah, getting a (technically) double action trigger to feel like a single action trigger may very well be a bridge too far. It's just different, no matter what the guys on youtube do. As you've shown us, it's possible to get the trigger very light. But even when it's light, it's still basically two stages and long. I don't think that's a negative for a gun built for military/LE/defense but it is different for those used to something else. With everything good about Glocks, they'll never be bulls eye guns.

On the bright side . . . I saw a Hickock45 video where he was said that to his surprise, when he started shooting double action revolvers for cowboy competitions it greatly improved his semi-auto shooting. The long heavy trigger pull improved his trigger control. Maybe the long Glock trigger pull will can improve 1911 shooting? :cool:
 

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With everything good about Glocks, they'll never be bulls eye guns.
I believe one would classify Glock as a combat weapon.

It is still capable of hitting bullseyes - my 17 has no problem achieving this goal.

Target Weapon

Consistently hitting the bullseye ...

ymmv

:cool:
 

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Sry, left out the word competition - bullseye competition gun. Super accurate; short, light, crisp trigger; requires constant cleaning and care to keep functioning :)

A Glock is amazingly accurate for the reliability and cost which is why I think their the best pistol ever made.
 

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N/P Stream, I knew what you meant, just a bit of clarification if I may, for the new ones to the game.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Can't leave nothing alone....went ahead last night n took a small file w/600 grit n rounded the inside edge of the trigger bar's edge at it's tip...polished...installed and love it. It did exactly what I'd hoped for...took the abrupt wall feel where pressure builds before continuing on and rolls over enough to lesson the felt trigger pull...still a wall but not near as intense...went from 3.9 to 3.5. I started out with about 1/4th of the T/bars thickness being part of the radius and it's enough....gosh I may be running out of things to mess with now with this gun...like everything else :eek:
 

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A few years ago, I mistakenly took the advice of somebody on another forum and lightly radiused the engagement surface of the cruciform. My G17 then masqueraded as a G18, until I removed the part. Be careful out there!:cool:
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Been walking about today doing stuff around the house,cleaned a couple other guns I'm taking to the range tomorrow and will grab the empty 36, do some dry firing and find I absolutely love this trigger now....when my g/f got home from work I couldn't wait to let her try it...a smile came on her face...she also felt I got it right this time...so gratifying to have have taken this gun apart at least 30 times,watched countless videos sometimes twice or more and read every post I could find on Glock triggers to finally be satisfied with the trigger...also not have to buy someone else's trigger kit.:eek:
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Finally found trigger for my G36/3 marked 1704-1 from NDZperformance...listed as Gen 4 version and is used on the new Gen 3 as well obviously. Had a light strike one time with 4lb spring...replacing with 5lb.
 

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Can't leave nothing alone....went ahead last night n took a small file w/600 grit n rounded the inside edge of the trigger bar's edge at it's tip...polished...installed and love it. It did exactly what I'd hoped for...took the abrupt wall feel where pressure builds before continuing on and rolls over enough to lesson the felt trigger pull...still a wall but not near as intense...went from 3.9 to 3.5. I started out with about 1/4th of the T/bars thickness being part of the radius and it's enough....gosh I may be running out of things to mess with now with this gun...like everything else :eek:
Try watching my DIY stippling vids on my YouTube channel "CYCLONE GUNWORKS"
 

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A few years ago, I mistakenly took the advice of somebody on another forum and lightly radiused the engagement surface of the cruciform. My G17 then masqueraded as a G18, until I removed the part. Be careful out there!:cool:

How did I miss this post ?

I have lots of time now and am always game for a little fun ....




 
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