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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Here's my issue. . . .I have a department-issued G23 that I got in the spring and have qualified with it twice and now have about 500-600 rounds through it. . . .it shoots reliably and I really like it. . .so much that I bought a G27 for off-duty carry.

I qualified with the G27 and had a couple issues of FTF (slide locked back) and at the time I attributed it to limp-wristing (had a hard time adjusting to the smaller grip).

Today I took the G27 to the range and put about 250 rounds through it and had several failures to feed due to slide hanging back. I was really concentrating on locking my wrist so I'm pretty sure I wasn't limp-wristing it. I brought it home and gave it a good clean and lube and will be going out to the range again tomorrow.

I'd be happy if I could feed 50 rounds through it without a malfunction. I'll put a couple hundred rounds through it and see what happens.

So that brings me around to my question: Do Glocks need "break-in" shooting to make them reliable? Or is it more breaking in the shooter to the Glock?

Thanks in advance for your replies!

Rob
 

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I am no expert but you should not need to break in a GLOCK to make it reliable. The more you shoot it and dry fire practice with it the smoother the trigger should get but you shouldn't be dealing with the FTFs. Could be any number of things, starting with the ammo if you have eliminated the limp wristing. Since they are smaller grips, one thing that many people do is to add a Pierce grip extension on the magazine to give you a place for those other fingers. That will help with your grip going forward.

If the ammo isn't the deal, did you buy the G27 new? There are plenty of people here that will come along shortly to offer great advice on what to look out for or check on. Good luck and let us know how it goes!

Welcome to the forum as well, by the way.
 

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That, or it may be installed incorrectly if someone took it apart to clean it and then re-assembled it wrong. I know as this happened to me just the other week. Everything looked good but the spring wasn't being compressed and it allowed the slide stop to rise up on it's own, locking the slide back.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
OK. . .I just got back from the range. I put 220 rounds through it. I modified my grip to keep my right thumb out of the way better and everything seems OK for now. I did have it lock back twice early on in the session, but I believe I relaxed my grip discipline and my thumb may have hit it. After the second lock back, I fired another 180+ rounds without any problems. . . long story short, I think this failure was operator error. I would like to mention though that the slide lock lever does move extremely easy (compared to my G23), as if the spring was weaker. If I have the opportunity, I may have a Glock armorer evaluate the spring and maybe replace it just for giggles.

For those that are wondering, I am shooting Federal American Eagle 180 grain FMJ factory rounds for practice and Federal 165 grain HST Tactical JHP for self defense. My magazines (both) have the Pearce PG-2733 +1 extensions. I have noted that the JHPs have NEVER caused the slide to lock back--I'm not sure if it's coincidental or not.

Also, I purchased this gun new about a month ago from a Glock dealer in PA--it was test-fired at the Glock factory on 9/1/10

Thanks for all the comments and advice.

Rob
 

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Not seeing your grip, you may want to try a more thumb forward grip. I don't have a G26/G27 yet but on my 19, my Left thumb is way down the frame towards the front sight, slightly pressing against the frame. In this configuration, there is no way my actual thumb could push up the slide stop. Let us know and stick around, the forum is great here as well are the people.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
When I first encountered this problem I thought it was improbable that I'd be hitting it with my thumb, but that "seems" to be the case, unless by modifying my grip I'm reducing the vertical movement that's causing the slide lock lever to move when the gun is fired. I think that modifying my grip could have cured a symptom, but didn't really cure the problem, which is why I'm probably gonna have that spring changed out when I can.

Has anyone ever heard of that spring being weak and letting that slide lock lever move when it's fired?
 

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When I first encountered this problem I thought it was improbable that I'd be hitting it with my thumb, but that "seems" to be the case, unless by modifying my grip I'm reducing the vertical movement that's causing the slide lock lever to move when the gun is fired. I think that modifying my grip could have cured a symptom, but didn't really cure the problem, which is why I'm probably gonna have that spring changed out when I can.

Has anyone ever heard of that spring being weak and letting that slide lock lever move when it's fired?
I haven't but again, it can be installed incorrectly. When re-installing my top pin, I didn't wiggle the slide lock back and forth and I was instructed to do. The spring ended up going over the top of the top pin instead of under it. In this configuration, there was much less compression on the spring. Almost no compression really. This allowed the slide stop to easily rise up and lock the slide back. I found out during dry fire practice. When racking the slide back, it would often lock back. I can only assume with all of the violent movement of a firearm firing a projectile, the slide lock would move more frequently than from dry firing.
 

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One suggestion... check the slide lock mechanism installation. If the locking block pin is not installed prior to installation of the trigger bar (with locking block mechanism with spring depressed by the locking block pin) the slide will lock back randomly. Been there... done that!
 

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True ... the spring might not be installed correctly. Even if you do replace it ... it's an $8 part. Not saying you should have to replace parts on a new gun ... just that if you do it is inexpensive.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I think the spring is installed correctly, based on your (EdF702's) description of how it should be. It looks like the spring is under the pin. I've attached a couple pics that hopefully you can see the spring well enough to verify it's installation. As far as I know, this Glock has not been disassembled since leaving the factory (other than field stripping for cleaning). I'm gonna keep shooting it for now and try to perfect my grip and see if that takes care of the issue. This gun DOES jump around quite a bit more than my G23 and maybe I just need to control it a little better.

I've carried a lot of different guns throughout my career and I've never had an issue like this with any other. . .and I know the Glock is built like no other, so I realize there might be some differences in technique involved. This issue aside, I love how the gun shoots. . .excellent trigger pull, great ergonomics, nice size and I shoot really tight groups with it. Thanks again for the input and advice.

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/14231719/340.JPG
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/14231719/346.JPG
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/14231719/347.JPG
 

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Sorry, but I can't tell by the pics.... A couple of things, look art my thread "A little help please" from a couple of days ago.... Sound familiar? A nice forum member gave me this link :

http://www.alpharubicon.com/mrpoyz/glock/

That helped me no end... Good Luck!
 

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It's installed correctly. Your thumb was hitting it, that's all. If the gun is new I don't think the spring would be weak.

I also have a G23 and G27. Got my G23 first. Then I got the G27 and on the first range trip with it, the slide was failing to lock back on the last round. I noticed that my thumb was actually holding the slide stop down upon recoil. Changed my grip and everything works the way it should.
 

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I had my brand new Gen4 Glock22 slide to lock back with rounds in the magazine the other day and I know it was me that hit the slide lock lever with the thumb. Today I ran a full mag with a firmer thumbs forward grip and no problems at all.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
I'm still experimenting with my 27. . . my last trip to the range I got 220 rounds through it with with two lock-backs--I'm still not totally convinced that my thumbs are hitting the lock lever because I can't touch that lever while holding the gun in a shooting position, unless the recoil is somehow twisting the gun around in my hand. Yesterday at work I was looking the gun over and I made these observations:

--I have the Pearce +1 mag extensions on both mags; when I have 10 rounds loaded in the mag and insert the mag into the gun with the slide forward, it takes a fair amount of force to get it to lock in. If you continue pushing up on the mag after it locks (as if you were rapidly slamming the mag into the well) I noticed that something was pushing the slide lock UP--it actually touched the slide.

--When you remove one round from the mag this does not happen. It's as if loading the 10th round into the mag is somehow slightly changing the dimensions of the top of the mag so that it touches the slide lock upon insertion, forcing it upward toward the slide. I can't say if this happens with both mags--I'll know today.

--I field stripped the gun and put a loaded mag into the frame to observe what happens inside upon insertion. I can't get the mag to even touch the slide lock, no matter what I do, so the problem is related to having the 10th round in the mag AND forcing it against the slide to cause movement and / or deformation to touch the slide lock.

--The gun otherwise feeds fine with 10 rounds in the mag.

--I've never experienced lockback on the first or second round so I'm not entirely sure if this problem is related to the lockback or not. I'm still not ruling out operator error (limp-wristing). I intend to hit the range again this weekend to do some more experimenting with it. I may remove the Pearce extensions next and see if it makes any difference.

--Rob
 

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I take apart, inspect, clean, lubricate, and assemble each new Glock I purchase. I take it to the range with 100-200 rounds and one magazine worth of JHP self-defense ammunition. If the gun functions properly, then it's ready for use.

The following is not a 1911 bash. I like 1911's, but they are what they are.

The whole "break-in" period is all about testing 1911's and the idea has wormed its way into popular gun culture. Contrary to popular belief, it's a poor design that requires the cartridge bounce around quite a bit in order to get into the chamber. Even Larry Vickers isn't too keen on 1911's, and he carries a Glock 19 (this from an excellent 1911 gunsmith). Go read several articles regarding 1911 reliability by Hilton Yam.

"1911 Reliability, What Does It Really Mean?"
http://10-8performance.blogspot.com/2010/05/1911-reliability-what-does-it-really.html

http://10-8performance.com/1911_Users_Guide.html

http://10-8performance.com/1911_Duty_Use.html

http://10-8performance.com/Reliability_Round_Counts.html

After reading the above, it's clear to me that there are too many variables with regard to 1911 reliability. The Glock design is completely different and the cartridges have almost a straight shot into the chamber. I do expect a new Glock pistol to be very close to Glock specifications. This lends a certain level of trust in the gun. It is not a guarantee that the gun will not have problems, but my experience with 100+ Glocks (not all mine!) has been 99% of them have been excellent out of the box. One NEW Glock 19 had trouble and we just ran rounds through it until the rough metal went away. My used Glock 21 had magazine issues because the previous owner had installed +2 magazine extensions without changing the springs. The gun worked properly with a new factory magazine. Removing the extensions and replacing the springs solved all magazine issues. If a Glock is within spec, it will run. Shooting 1,000 rounds through it won't change the fact that it's properly made and reliable as a result.
 

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--I have the Pearce +1 mag extensions on both mags; when I have 10 rounds loaded in the mag and insert the mag into the gun with the slide forward, it takes a fair amount of force to get it to lock in. If you continue pushing up on the mag after it locks (as if you were rapidly slamming the mag into the well) I noticed that something was pushing the slide lock UP--it actually touched the slide.

--When you remove one round from the mag this does not happen. It's as if loading the 10th round into the mag is somehow slightly changing the dimensions of the top of the mag so that it touches the slide lock upon insertion, forcing it upward toward the slide. I can't say if this happens with both mags--I'll know today.

--I field stripped the gun and put a loaded mag into the frame to observe what happens inside upon insertion. I can't get the mag to even touch the slide lock, no matter what I do, so the problem is related to having the 10th round in the mag AND forcing it against the slide to cause movement and / or deformation to touch the slide lock.
Return the magazine to factory spec. I suspect the slide lock problem will disappear.

I never use gadgets to increase magazine capacity. They caused trouble with my Glock 21 and my Glock 19.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
This issue has been resolved. See this thread for details: http://glock.pro/showthread.php/1267-G27-update.-.-. As of this writing I've shot an additional 400-500 rounds through it without any problems. Based on my experience and reading about others experiences, it's my observation that some Glocks do need some rounds put through 'em to "wear in" certain parts. What parts need this additional "machining" seems to vary from gun-to-gun--in my case it was probably the powdercoat finish on the slide release lever near the pin-hole being applied too thickly, causing it to bind. When that powdercoat was worn away from use, the binding ceased.

Merry Christmas!

--Rob
 
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