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409 Posts
My G17 is great. It has never missed a beat and has functioned 100%. As for accuracy, the sights are directly on point of aim at 15 paces. It is my go-to pistol for any occasion. The only thing I didn't like about the pistol is how it looked. I know that "looks" should be totally inconsequential to function, but it's my pistol, and I'll make it look the way I want.
I don't have a problem with the grip. It's perfect for my large hands, so "grip-reduction" is not necessary. What I don't like is the Glock's profile. I just don't like the way it looks. It's the trigger-guard "nose" that is the object of this post. I have seen posts that show the trigger-guard with a re-shaped nose. I like the look of a rounded trigger-guard. I don't wrap my weak hand finger around the trigger-guard, so removing the nose will not affect function. In the posts I've seen, the posters show pictures, but they are generally "before and after" examples.
So, to possibly help others, I decided to take some in-process photos to show the procedure. My pistol turned out exactly as I had envisioned. It now looks as if the pistol was made with a rounded trigger guard instead of a square nose. I was even able to leave some of the original Glock knurling on the front of the rounded trigger-guard. The job is certainly not difficult, and if done with patience, your efforts will be rewarded.
• Please note that the most important "tool" is the masking tape. Use it to lay out your plan and to protect areas you do not want to contact during grinding and sanding.
• The thickness of the vertical part of the trigger-guard is a little thicker than the horizontal part. Be aware of this when you blend the curve.
• Be careful not to sand the sides of the trigger-guard. You will not be able to match the existing finish. This is not so critical of the sanded curve. Using the masking tape will limit how far you sand along the vertical and horizontal planes. This does make a difference.
PHOTOS…
1. Mask off the areas that you do NOT want to sand.
2. This is the point of no return. The grinder is handy, but don't take off too much.
3. The intended curve is evident and the grinder can be put away. Put it away. Now. Back away from the grinder.
4. Re-mask if you need to use the grinder any further.
5. Hand sanding from here on out. Note the blending of the curve from vertical to horizontal.
6. Slow and steady. Wet the area to see your progress. Continually check the curve blend.
7. 98% finished. I want to do a little more finish sanding with a fine emory board tomorrow, but really nothing that will be noticeable.
8. It's done. This is the Glock profile I prefer.
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I don't have a problem with the grip. It's perfect for my large hands, so "grip-reduction" is not necessary. What I don't like is the Glock's profile. I just don't like the way it looks. It's the trigger-guard "nose" that is the object of this post. I have seen posts that show the trigger-guard with a re-shaped nose. I like the look of a rounded trigger-guard. I don't wrap my weak hand finger around the trigger-guard, so removing the nose will not affect function. In the posts I've seen, the posters show pictures, but they are generally "before and after" examples.
So, to possibly help others, I decided to take some in-process photos to show the procedure. My pistol turned out exactly as I had envisioned. It now looks as if the pistol was made with a rounded trigger guard instead of a square nose. I was even able to leave some of the original Glock knurling on the front of the rounded trigger-guard. The job is certainly not difficult, and if done with patience, your efforts will be rewarded.
• Please note that the most important "tool" is the masking tape. Use it to lay out your plan and to protect areas you do not want to contact during grinding and sanding.
• The thickness of the vertical part of the trigger-guard is a little thicker than the horizontal part. Be aware of this when you blend the curve.
• Be careful not to sand the sides of the trigger-guard. You will not be able to match the existing finish. This is not so critical of the sanded curve. Using the masking tape will limit how far you sand along the vertical and horizontal planes. This does make a difference.
PHOTOS…
1. Mask off the areas that you do NOT want to sand.
2. This is the point of no return. The grinder is handy, but don't take off too much.
3. The intended curve is evident and the grinder can be put away. Put it away. Now. Back away from the grinder.
4. Re-mask if you need to use the grinder any further.
5. Hand sanding from here on out. Note the blending of the curve from vertical to horizontal.
6. Slow and steady. Wet the area to see your progress. Continually check the curve blend.
7. 98% finished. I want to do a little more finish sanding with a fine emory board tomorrow, but really nothing that will be noticeable.
8. It's done. This is the Glock profile I prefer.
............
