[TNmarine]

Looking for info on recoil springs. I am currently working on my first glock (21sf) and am looking to tweak it to my shooting style.

I have currently installed a adjustable trigger, along with trigger and striker springs.
The trigger is exactly where I want it but am still finding myself taking to long to get back on target.

So my question is this: Will installing a new recoil spring/rod help? And if so what weight should as I use as they come in 11,13,15,(17),20 and 22. Or is there another option I am overlooking? Any information on this would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

 

[Don Glock]

i just bought a wolff non captured recoil system for my g29. the stock weight is 17lbs, and i have the 21lb spring in it. works great at reducing recoil/frame battering with hot loads.

don't think i'd change a .45 recoil springs though. even +p loads are pretty mild in that caliber. are you planning a lot of hot or weak loads shooting?

 

[TNmarine]

For usual target practice I use standard 230gr JHP but for carry ammunition I use 165gr JHP +P. And as we all know you need to practice with what you carry. As that ammo is quite expensive that is why I am looking for the "quick fix". Perhaps just a new steel or tungsten (heavier) guide rod? Do you think that would help?

 

[Don Glock]

For usual target practice I use standard 230gr JHP but for carry ammunition I use 165gr JHP +P. And as we all know you need to practice with what you carry. As that ammo is quite expensive that is why I am looking for the "quick fix". Perhaps just a new steel or tungsten (heavier) guide rod? Do you think that would help?

in that case, no, save your money. an aftermarket recoil system is completely unecessary. the g21 uses the same recoil spring as the 10mm g20. if it can handle 10mm, it's more than enough for the low pressure .45 +p.

on another note, the corbon +p 165gr hardly kicks. it's about the same recoil as the 230gr fmj. this ammo also shatters on impact (it's not bonded), and can penetrate as little as 7 inches. the winchester PDX1 230gr standard pressure round is MUCH cheaper, bonded, and penetrates better. you can find it pretty much anywhere too.

check out this video:

 

[TNmarine]

Good to know, I appreciate the info and my wallet does too. I'll definetly be picking up some of that ammo in the next few days. Thanks.

 

[Don Glock]

Good to know, I appreciate the info and my wallet does too. I'll definetly be picking up some of that ammo in the next few days. Thanks.

no prob my friend! welcome to the forum, by the way!

this is the .45 PDX1:

http://concealedcarryforum.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=17181

 

[jlw]

Is this for competition or for carry?

 

[halfbreedinkc]

I'm still learning about Glock and as such I've a few questions that may seem stupid to you long-time Glock folks but, here goes - what is the difference between a captured and non-captured rods?

 

[Don Glock]

I'm still learning about Glock and as such I've a few questions that may seem stupid to you long-time Glock folks but, here goes - what is the difference between a captured and non-captured rods?

Captured just means the spring doesn't come off the rod.

 

[TNmarine]

Is this for competition or for carry?

This is just a carry pistol

 

[jlw]

This is just a carry pistol

I'd be very cautious about making a lot of changes to a carry Glock.

As for being faster on target/follow-up shots, are you pushing your arms to full extension and locking your wrist and elbows?

 

[G23SNT]

I'd be very cautious about making a lot of changes to a carry Glock.

As for being faster on target/follow-up shots, are you pushing your arms to full extension and locking your wrist and elbows?

I agree with jlweems.. be careful with what mods you make to your glocks.

 

[Don Glock]

i wouldn't bother with light striker springs on a defensive glock. might get light primer strikes. also, if you use a competition spring, i would pick the wolff. the glockmeister brand ones (which is NOT made by wolff, contrary to popular opinion) has been known to break.