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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Are there any bow hunters or target shooters using the stick and string. As much as I love my guns, all of them, I truly love my bows. I would rather bow hunt than anything else. I don't care if I am hunting deer, hogs, javelina's, yotes, rabbits or shooting targets in the yard.
 

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No... Nyet, Nein! I have enough interests (or addictions)... No pics please, the temptation needs no help!
 

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I'm in for the sport, I do not hunt with guns and have no intention of learning to bow hunt, but as of late, my interest has peaked to the point of looking at the specs and prices of a entry level set up.

Come the Apocalypse a stick and sting may come in handy .....

Any suggestion on where to look and what to look at ?

I am not interested in a crossbow setup, I think I want to learn to shoot a traditional bow and arrow or maybe a compound bow setup.
 

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I was interested in what yours was BJT, as your image is a bit dark, hope you do not mind my reposting it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
To start go to a good reputable pro shop, get your draw length measured then shoot as many bows as you can get your hands on. When you find "THE" bow it will sing to ya. You don't have to have a super fast bow for hunting but I prefer a bow with a high IBO because I can shoot a heavier arrow at a decent speed. Speed gives you a flatter trajectory but you don't have to have a 300 fps bow. I shoot a bow that came out in 07, it sang to me when I shot it the first time. I bought it after the third shot. This bow with a 420 gr. arrow will shoot 285 fps at 70# and 29"DL. I have a bow that shoots the same 420 gr. arrow at 319.

The faster bow has a more aggressive draw, has no valley so a solid push pull method of shooting is required. This has made me a better bow shooter I think and I can shoot it accurately. IF you creep with this bow even a little it will shoot you through it if you're not holding on. It is difficult to let down because it is so aggressive.

The slower bow is a smooth build up then brakes over into a deep valley with a rock solid back wall. I can literally hold this bow at full draw for several minutes without getting the shakes. I have no problems letting down with this bow.

There is a bow within your budget you just have to find it. I am not brand loyal at all. I will and do shoot PSE, Diamond, Bowtech, Mathews and Strother. What gets expensive is losing arrows but this is where you should not skimp.

Now, you have found your bow. The next step is a rest, sight, release and quiver. Try as many as you can you will know the right one. I shoot a drop away on all of my bows but that is me. Some will say and I do not agree that a Whisker Biskit is the best hunting rest on the market, to each his own. A release is also a personal choice. I use a Tru Ball because I like it. Sights I will and do spend more money on. Any of them will work but some are bullet proof meaning I haven't torn it up "yet". I still prefer a multi pin sight and have pins out to 80 yds on my SR71, Omen and Monster. This is totally unnecessary but I can shoot this far in my front yard and hunt mule deer out west.

I have yet to take a White Tail deer further than 38 yards which is a long shot.

I have rambled on and will close but will stress again to go to a pro shop and get help. IF they are reputable they can get you in a bow that fits and is in your budget. You don't have to shoot the latest Mathews or any other fan boy brand. A bow that fits you, that you can draw without getting a hernia and can hold and let down will kill everything if you put a good sharp broad head in the kill zone.

Good luck to you.
 

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j870sm,

Good post! Thanks for the background, it will take me a while to begin to understand it. I appreciate your effort.

Chris
 

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Thank you Otinx.

Agreed with J870.

I've taken more game with my 35lbs draw weight recurve growing up the most with big pull weight compounds. My dad makes Long bows and his own arrows. I didn't touch my first compound until I was a teenager.

I've got a buddy new to bows. He went out and paid almost $2k for the new carbon fiber Hoyt Bow. I tried to tell him he didn't need all that. I proved my point by taking him shooting with my Bow VS his.

Arrow speed has its place and is needed in certain circumstances. Practice and knowing your bow will out way speed tho.

By starting with recurve, I became an instinctive shooter. ( my phrase, makes since to me. Shooting without sights). I think it made me a better shooter. I have sights on my compound.

Technology in regards to bows has come so far, it's in real. But, you don't gave to have the latest and greatest. Get what feels right for you and shoot it until it becomes natural.

I'm rambling, sorry.
 

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Thnkx guys for the direction, I have no clue to anything "bow" and a trip to a competent shop sounds like my best investment.
 

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Thnkx guys for the direction, I have no clue to anything "bow" and a trip to a competent shop sounds like my best investment.
Make sure to try several bows and more than one shop. Feel free to bounce questions off of us as they come up during your new adventure.:)
 

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My biggest problem is going to be finding a shop of any kind, not much bow huntin goin on in this city ....


lol
 

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+1 the J870sm and Bluejawtrigger. Great informative posts. I too prefer to bowhunt over gun hunt. It is way more rewarding in my opinion. I have not gotten to bowhunt or shoot 3D as much as I want to due to my job, but the itch is still there.
I shoot Pearson bows that were made in '06 & '07. My friends keep bugging me to get a new bow, but when my '06 Bulldog shoots a 445 grain arrow at 275 FPS and the deer usually drop within earshot if not eyesite, I ask them "Why?" I can smack arrows all day long at 40 yds. with my '07 Passion II, so I have a great 3D rig.
I spend my money on my gun collection and ammo. :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I used to shoot spots and 3d in a league. I liked shooting 3d more but shooting spots will keep you honest with yourself.
 
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