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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Introduction: Glock pistols sometimes produce erratic ejection of fired cartridge cases. Instead of dropping the cases into a neat pile off to the right side, sometimes they come straight back at you, sometimes they barely fall out of the gun, and sometimes they spin off to the left or forward. Here is a checklist to help you solve the problem, organized into sections dealing with parts (out of date or broken), ammo, and the shooter.

1) Out-of-Date RSA: If your gun is a Gen4 Glock, it is possible that you have an out-of-date Recoil Spring Assembly (RSA) in the gun, and that could contribute to the problem. RSA Markings are found on the end of the RSA that fits into the cutout in the barrel. In order to find the RSA Marking the gun needs to be field-stripped so that you can remove and examine the RSA.

Because Glock does update the parts list occasionally, rather than include the part numbers and descriptions here, we will point you to the parts list. Look for "RECOIL SPRING ASSEMBLIES" to find the right part number and markings for your gun: http://us.glock.com/documents/GLOCK_Parts_Order_Form_Certified.pdf

Here is an illustration of current Gen4 RSAs:

Font Circle Screenshot Number Clock


2) Out-of-Date Ejector: An incorrect ejector can also be the cause. Glock made significant changes to the shape of the ejector in several Gen4 models, which dramatically improved ejection. Also, if you have performed a "conversion", making a 9mm Glock into a .40 Glock (or the reverse), a change in ejector is required. Changing the ejector is only done by changing out the Trigger Mechanism Housing, which contains the ejector, since ejectors are no longer sold as individual parts.

Use the link to the parts list (above) to find the right ejector marking for your gun. If the ejector in your gun is not current, contact your Glock dealer or an Armorer to get the right part and have it installed. Here is a photo of a marked ejector as a guide:

Automotive design Bumper Automotive exterior Carbon Font


3) Damaged Parts: Erratic ejection can be caused by a damaged extractor. This is not all that rare, an extractor can be chipped by putting a round in the chamber manually and slamming the slide home repeatedly, and sometimes extractors just break. A quick visual inspection of our extractor can be done by field-stripping the pistol and looking at the extractor from a few angles. Here are photos of a good extractor to be used as a guide:

Land vehicle Vehicle Automotive lighting Grille Car


Material property Font Automotive design Gas Carbon


Automotive design Automotive exterior Gadget Font Gas


Automotive design Rectangle Auto part Composite material Fashion accessory


4) Extractor Function: With a new Glock that has not fired enough ammunition to wear off some of the coating on the extractor, we experienced BTF at an unacceptable rate. The thick, new coating on the extractor may slow down the extractor just enough that the it does not have the empty case held flat against the breech face by the time the ejector hits the case. With the empty case slightly out of position when the ejector strikes it, the case comes back toward the shooter instead of off to the right or right rear of the shooter.

Lightly sanding some of the coating off the extractor often solves this problem. I do not know how much you would have to shoot the pistol to get this to "break in" or wear down enough to solve the problem, I guess it would depend on the thickness and hardness of the coating. We do know that it's pretty easy to sand the coating down by laying a piece of fine (600 grit or higher) sandpaper grit-side-up on a pane of glass (to make sure that you sand it flat) and then rubbing the part against the sandpaper, carefully, just enough to take some of the coating off.

Make it look like this:

Rectangle Font Automotive exterior Fashion accessory Auto part


Wood Rectangle Font Automotive exterior Metal


Think of this as an extension to the "25-cent trigger job": all you're doing is accelerating break-in by taking off some material that would wear off anyway. You're just not going to plow through several hundred rounds of ammo to get the pistol to stop spitting brass into your face.

5) Magazine Problems: A sharp-eyed observer noticed that a G19 was spitting back the last round of one of the magazines, and only the last round. We were able to reproduce the problem with that magazine consistently. I'm still not certain about the cure for this, but if you experience BTF regularly on the last round of a certain magazine, take a close look at the magazine itself. The follower may not have been snapped on to the spring when the magazine was assembled, or the follower may be damaged. Also inspect the magazine spring for any damage.

6) Ammunition: Consistent ejection is enabled by a reasonable match between the power of the ammunition and the RSA. For example, typical "target loads" like Winchester White Box, will eject differently than some super-hot defense loads, from the same gun. Although rare, there are cases where a given brand or load of ammo will simply not work well in a particular Glock.

We have seen cases where the use of steel-cased or bimetal-case ammo in Glocks is associated with cycling problems. Originally I though this was caused by the coating on the cases coming off an gumming up the chamber, but there's a much better explanation: steel-based ammo doesn't stretch as much as brass, so there is a lot of bypass of soot out of the case and into the chamber. That will quickly build up and cause a variety of cycling-related problems.

The solution? Don't use steel-cased ammo in Glocks, or if you do use it, clean the gun regularly, every few hundred rounds.

Glock chambers are known for tolerating almost any ammo, which means in many cases that they are a little loose, on the high side of the SAAMI specification for chamber sizes. Combine that with cartridge cases that do not stretch enough to seal the chamber, and you've got a fouling problem.

You can spend a lot of time anguishing about this, but if you want to solve the problem the most direct approach may simply to change ammo. On the other hand, if you insist on shooting either very light or very hot ammo, reply to this thread and we'll get some recommendations for upgrading your RSA so that it will work with your ammo. Rather than attempting to list the many combinations of loads and springs that work well, just reply to this thread listing what you are using and the Members will come back with some recommendations.

Hot ammo can also reveal a worn RSA. Glock parts do last nearly forever, but sometimes an old RSA just needs to be replaced to solve the problem. If your gun has fired a few thousand rounds, don't rule out replacing some parts. The service life of the pre-Gen4 RSA is 5,000 rounds, so if yours has seen more use than that, a replacement is likely in order.

7) Shooter: Shooting a Glock well and making it perform well require a good grip on the gun. It's that simple, people. If you are a new shooter, or if you have been shooting something else and are just coming back to your Glock, your grip may have deteriorated.

A good way to determine if grip is your problem is to have a friend shoot your gun, to see if he or she has the same ejection problems that you are experiencing. If not, then your grip could be the cause.

Here is a link to a thread on establishing a good grip: http://glock.pro/training-tactics/5692-basic-action-shooting-grip-trigger-pull.html#post63665. Arm position and posture also play a role because your arms are important in managing recoil, here's a link to a thread on that topic: http://glock.pro/training-tactics/5693-basic-action-shooting-stance.html#post63667 .

If you haven't solved your Erratic Ejection problem by following the advice in this post, please post a reply to this thread so that we can solve your problem, learn from the process, and update this post!

Chris
 

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Chris i can not open the link you posted in either internet explorer or chrome
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Chris i can not open the link you posted in either internet explorer or chrome
Hmm. I'm using Safari on a Mac, and I haven't had this problem before. Please try this one, and if it doesn't work, see if you can copy and paste it into your browser, and let me know if it works.

Chris
 

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Hmm. I'm using Safari on a Mac, and I haven't had this problem before. Please try this one, and if it doesn't work, see if you can copy and paste it into your browser, and let me know if it works.

Chris
i don't see the new link
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
If you have corrections or additions for post #1 of this thread, please reply so that I can plug them into the post. I'm sure I have forgotten something....

Chris
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Please STICKY This! This is an Excellent Reference Source.
Thanks,
Ty Hoeffer
Palmyra, VA
Thanks, Ty. Sticking it is the plan, once we've had a chance to fill in any blanks that I left open. Stay tuned.

Chris
 

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Chris perhaps you can add as I am sure you know that even with a properly positioned grip and trigger pull if the shooter does not maintain a rigid arm position there is the potential for a problem. As the Glock utilizes the action of the slide after a round is fired to expel the spend brass and chamber another a soft arm position will have not only the slide moving back but also the entire gun. This takes energy away from the slide with can lead to stove pipes and problems with ejection
 

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A lot of us did a lot of experimenting to solve this problem. Some even buying another well known company's extractor.
What Chris has listed here has probably solved 99% of the problems we were having. I know I spent a good bit of money
myself. My G19 now has the parts listed here and it works fine. Some of those experimental parts I bought are in drawer
with all those holsters I've bought over the years.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
Chris perhaps you can add as I am sure you know that even with a properly positioned grip and trigger pull if the shooter does not maintain a rigid arm position there is the potential for a problem. As the Glock utilizes the action of the slide after a round is fired to expel the spend brass and chamber another a soft arm position will have not only the slide moving back but also the entire gun. This takes energy away from the slide with can lead to stove pipes and problems with ejection
Joe,

Good point, and I had composed a reply that I thought I had posted, but it's gone. Here's the new "Shooter" Section:

5) Shooter: Shooting a Glock well and making it perform well require a good grip on the gun. It's that simple, people. If you are a new shooter, or if you have been shooting something else and are just coming back to your Glock, your grip may have deteriorated. A good way to determine if grip is your problem is to have a friend shoot your gun, to see if he or she has the same ejection problems that you are experiencing. If not, then your grip could be the cause. Here is a link to a thread on establishing a good grip: Basic Action Shooting: The Grip and Trigger Pull. Arm position and posture also play a role, here's a link to a thread on that topic: Basic Action Shooting: Stance .

Chris
 

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Some of those experimental parts I bought are in drawer with all those holsters I've bought over the years.
Who does not have a drawer or two like this is what I want to know .....

 

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Sticky!!!

Chris rocks
X 2..! :cool:

"Who does not have a drawer or two like this is what I want to know ....."

Mine is a metal case like a brief case a foot deep...
I'm gonna open it up tomorrow and post some stuff up in the "Free" sticky thread, there's some good stuff in there so keep your eyes open guys,
I'm going to "pay it forward" from a friend on the forum that helped me out...
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
My Gen 3 19 with the 336 ejector occasionally sends brass back at me. Is it possible that I would benefit from the 30274 ejector?
Yes, the 30274 ejector will help, I've done this fix on a number of Gen3 guns. Buy these parts from Glockmeister:

Trigger Mechanism Housing with ejector for 4th Gen 9MM GLOCK-www.glockmeister.com
($7)
Depressor plunger spring-www.glockmeister.com ($3)

The first is Glock part number 30275, which contains the ejector marked "30274". Remove the ejector from 30725, and replace the existing ejector in your gun with this part. The ejectors are removed by removing the Trigger Mechanism Housing from the gun, then pulling them straight forward out of the Trigger Mechanism Housing, and replaced by pushing them straight back in until they stop. Try not to scratch the ejectors by putting some masking tape on the pliers you will need to use to do this work.

The second part is the Extractor Depressor Plunger Spring, which might be worn if the gun has a lot of rounds through it. Replacing it is a cheap way to rule that possibility out.

Replacing those two parts will very likely cure the problem, I have made this fix on several Gen3 Glocks.

I have also been considering giving on of these a try. https://apextactical.com/store/product-list.php?pg1-cid22.html What do you guys think?
You could certainly buy the Apex extractor and Extractor Depressor Plunger Spring for $59.95 unless you would rather spend $20.47 on the Lone Wolf Extractor and a new Extractor Depressor Plunger Spring, which I know works fine:
https://www.lonewolfdist.com/Detail.aspx?PROD=155971&TERM=extractor $16.99
https://www.lonewolfdist.com/Detail.aspx?PROD=383&TERM=plunger spring $3.48

(Obviously, if you buy the Extractor Depressor Plunger Spring from Glockmeister, you don't need another one from Lone Wolf...)

I recommend taking this one step at a time:

1. Replace the Ejector and Extractor Depressor Plunger Spring.
2. Test the gun.
3. If the problem persists, replace the Extractor.

Chris
 

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Yes, the 30274 ejector will help, I've done this fix on a number of Gen3 guns. Buy these parts from Glockmeister:

Trigger Mechanism Housing with ejector for 4th Gen 9MM GLOCK-www.glockmeister.com
($7)
Depressor plunger spring-www.glockmeister.com ($3)

The first is Glock part number 30275, which contains the ejector marked "30274". Remove the ejector from 30725, and replace the existing ejector in your gun with this part. The ejectors are removed by removing the Trigger Mechanism Housing from the gun, then pulling them straight forward out of the Trigger Mechanism Housing, and replaced by pushing them straight back in until they stop. Try not to scratch the ejectors by putting some masking tape on the pliers you will need to use to do this work.

The second part is the Extractor Depressor Plunger Spring, which might be worn if the gun has a lot of rounds through it. Replacing it is a cheap way to rule that possibility out.

Replacing those two parts will very likely cure the problem, I have made this fix on several Gen3 Glocks.

You could certainly buy the Apex extractor and Extractor Depressor Plunger Spring for $59.95 unless you would rather spend $19.99 on the Lone Wolf Extractor and a new Extractor Depressor Plunger Spring, which I know works fine:
https://www.lonewolfdist.com/Detail.aspx?PROD=155971&TERM=extractor
https://www.lonewolfdist.com/Detail.aspx?PROD=383&TERM=plunger spring

(Obviously, if you buy the Extractor Depressor Plunger Spring from Glockmeister, you don't need another one from Lone Wolf...)

I recommend taking this one step at a time:

1. Replace the Ejector and Extractor Depressor Plunger Spring.
2. Test the gun.
3. If the problem persists, replace the Extractor.

Chris
Thanks! I was hoping just the ejector would help the issue.
 
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