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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I am using a GLOCK Recoil Spring assembly in my Gen3 Glock compact frame size Glock pistol...

How do I remove the front 'plug' from the factory guide rod so that it can be re-used/re-installed on the rod without destroying it?
(I already tried simply pulling the plug from the guide rold after depressing the recoil spring. I have done this in the past but its not working for me now !)

thank you

ps.
now that you are here I have one more question.
I looked at the part numbers for "trigger with trigger bar" for all glock pistols and found *no duplicate part numbers.
I am of the opinion that for most Glock pistols, leaving aside the speciality pistols (43, 45Gap, etc) Glock has added to its lineup, that trigger bars are all the same length. That is, measured from the small hole at the front of the bar (that accepts a pin to secure the trigger to the rod) to the rearward tip of the cruciform. Comments ? thank you
 

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I think you do just yank the end off as you described above. However, unless it's against the rules, I'd just get an uncaptured SS guide rod if you want to try out different springs...

Not sure exactly what you're looking for... If it's a smooth faced trigger, there are different models available that will fit most of the Glock pistols... There are some old threads here that have the correct part numbers... They should be easy to search for...
 

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I am using a GLOCK Recoil Spring assembly in my Gen3 Glock compact frame size Glock pistol...

How do I remove the front 'plug' from the factory guide rod so that it can be re-used/re-installed on the rod without destroying it?
(I already tried simply pulling the plug from the guide rold after depressing the recoil spring. I have done this in the past but its not working for me now !)
If the part looks like this (below) it was not designed to be disassembled, and you will likely damage it if you try.

Rectangle Auto part Coil spring Tail Drawing

now that you are here I have one more question.
I looked at the part numbers for "trigger with trigger bar" for all glock pistols and found *no duplicate part numbers.
I think they're trying to tell us something.

What, I do not know.

I am of the opinion that for most Glock pistols, leaving aside the speciality pistols (43, 45Gap, etc) Glock has added to its lineup, that trigger bars are all the same length. That is, measured from the small hole at the front of the bar (that accepts a pin to secure the trigger to the rod) to the rearward tip of the cruciform. Comments ? thank you
I can't speak to length, but if you do just a little Googling you'll find that there were reasons for changes in trigger bars at different times, to fix problems like failure to return to battery. Also, I believe the Gen4 trigger bar introduced the "bump" on the "hump" (see below), supposedly to improve reset.

Hand Gesture Finger Bicycle part Wrist


Truthfully, I've asked myself the same question about trigger bar length, but I'm unable to tell you the difference because at the moment the only Glocks I own are listed as using the same trigger bar, otherwise I'd measure them for you.

One of the reasons for different trigger bar part numbers is that some trigger faces are smooth and some are grooved, the difference apparently driven by import regulations. That may have nothing at all to do with fit or function, however.

Since they are all the same price, I've never paid the differences (if there are any) much attention, I just obediently order the right part for the gun.

Chris
 

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What is it your looking for in the trigger bars?

If your looking for a smooth trigger, then the G17 trigger/trigger bar works.....just drop it in. I had bought G17 triggers/bars for all of my G19's. I have one done already and I can say it work great.

Add: they should also work in the G26 too. I have not got to it yet.
 

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Your rationale above RE: bump on the trigger, from my understanding, Glock said they had to redesign gen 4 because of the modular frame.

Add: you must use gen 4 in gen 4. You can use any of the earlier gen in any gen except pre EH serial numbers and gen 4.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Reply from OP

I did post a reply to all other posts but i must have forgotten to select the GO button......

Trigger Bar swapping: I like smooth triggers, but did not want to use one from a full size glock in my compact glock until I had some sense about the lenth of the trigger bars themselves..

I did manage to get a Gen3 compact recoil spring assembly apart by compressing the spring, holding the rod gently with a pair of plyers, while pulling the end off with a second pair of plyers. There is small bulch on the stem of the end plug about 3/16" down from the top of the plug. I was changing out all the Springs on a well-used G-32 I purchased and had a new ISMI spring I wanted to use.... the RSA went back together well and the plug has stayed put, so far.

thanks for the feedback.
 

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Once the guide rod is back in the gun, it will be fine... Even if the connection isn't solid it will be OK... That's why the uncaptured guide rods work...

I put smooth triggers in all my Glocks... Can't remember the part numbers off hand...
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
OP Reply:

thanks for all the replies. I found something worth knowing from each post; even the quotes in someone's signature. sent one pm. :)
 
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