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Connector Comparison Test

100K views 85 replies 27 participants last post by  GlockGuy101 
#1 · (Edited)
The variety of connectors available for Glock pistols has always interested me, especially when I began to install them regularly and I noticed the variations in cost and claims for performance. A routine theme with aftermarket connectors is that they will reduce trigger pull, often claiming a "3.5 lb trigger pull".

After I installed a tested a few connectors, I began to question my ability because I was not seeing results that came close to the manufacturers' claims. None of the triggers measured 3.5 pounds after I installed the connectors. It had to be something I was doing wrong, I reasoned.

To get to the bottom of this question I devised a comparison test, where I would measure the average trigger pull after installing a connector. Today I completed the first iteration of the test: here are the details and results.

The test was done with an unfired, brand-new Glock G21SF pistol. This is a newly manufactured Gen3 pistol with a Gen4-style trigger bar (P/N 4256-1), an unmarked connector, and a trigger mechanism housing with an ejector marked 8196-2. I did not even clean the gun: I just took it out of the box and put it on the vise block shown in the photo below.

The vise block was designed for .40 and 9mm Glocks, so the .45 ACP G21SF did not fit it well. I had to push against the back of the pistol with my right hand to steady it on the block while I pulled the trigger with the gauge in my left hand. This was not at all hard to do, and I made sure that the pistol was steady in the vise block before pulling the trigger.

The connectors I tested were:
1. Glock standard connector as delivered in the G21SF
2. Glock "-" Connector
3. GlockTriggers Performance connector 3.5#
4. Lone Wolf Distributors 3.5# connector
5. Zev Tech V3 Race connector
6. Scherer 3.5# connector​

After I installed a connector in the gun, I applied a drop of FP-10 lubricant to the place where the connector meets the trigger bar, and to the side of the trigger bar where it contacts the frame.

The connectors were all in new condition, exactly as received from the suppliers. I installed them, one by one, ran the tests, and recorded the data, which you will see at the end of this post.

The test was be very simple: mount the Glock in a vise block to hold it steady, with the connector installed operate the slide and pull the trigger 20 times with a Lyman(R) electronic Trigger Pull Gauge, recording each reading individually. I then calculate the average of the 20 pull weights, along with standard deviation (just for the heck of it) using a Microsoft Excel worksheet.

The trigger was be pulled by pulling Lyman gauge directly against the middle of the face of the trigger and straight back. In order to get this to work consistently I had to replace the plastic roller on the trigger gauge with a wooden "finger tip" that I ground out of a piece of maple. It isn't pretty, but it fits over the trigger and centers itself, it pulls the trigger safety back, and it does not touch the frame at all when it is in position to pull the trigger back to the "break".

Here is the pistol in the vise block:

Wood Automotive tire Bumper Hardwood Machine tool


Here is the modified trigger pull gauge engaging the trigger:

Automotive design Tints and shades Automotive exterior Auto part Personal protective equipment


Grey Wood Audio equipment Wire Water


Here are the connectors as they were tested:

Rectangle Grey Font Audio equipment Eyewear
Rectangle Grey Font Line Technology
Rectangle Font Signage Logo Brand
Font Rectangle Logo Graphics Brand
Rectangle Font Electronic device Signage Graphics
Font Rectangle Brand Logo Monochrome photography


Here is the summary of the results. Details are available in an attached .pdf file.

MakeModelAvg Pull PoundsStd Dev
(20 pulls)
Retail PriceSource
Glock5.5 lb "standard"7.3920.645$4.50Glockmeister
Lone Wolf DistributorsLWD Connector 3.5 lb5.7910.240$14.95Lone Wolf Distributors
Glock4.5 lb "minus"5.5800.305$25.00Glockmeister
GlockTriggers3.5# Performance Connector5.5700.245$27.95GlockTriggers*
Scherer3.5 lb trigger pull connector5.5590.152$9.99MidwayUSA
Zev TechV3 Race Connector5.3770.225$15.00GlockWorx
* No longer sold as an individual part apparently, now included in kits.

The term "Std Dev" is an abbreviation for Standard Deviation, which means the following according to Wikipedia:
"In statistics and probability theory, standard deviation (represented by the symbol sigma, σ) shows how much variation or "dispersion" exists from the average (mean, or expected value). A low standard deviation indicates that the data points tend to be very close to the mean, whereas high standard deviation indicates that the data points are spread out over a large range of values."

I included standard deviation of the measured pulls (in pounds) to demonstrate the consistency of the test results, meaning basically how close the measurement strings were. You can see this for yourself by looking at the test result details in the attached file. I will admit that the somewhat lumpy first test, using the Glock standard connector, probably has a higher standard deviation due to operator error: I probably did it myself. Things improved dramatically after that first test as you can see. If it wasn't operator error, it might have been due to the fact that the gun was brand new, and what we see in the results was the effect of the first part of break-in.

Conclusions:

I cannot say with certainty that all of my conclusions will apply for all models of Glock pistols. I expect to see different results with a Gen4 pistol, and I plan to follow this test with a Gen4 G17 as soon as I get some fresh parts.

1. The standard trigger pull of a G21SF is about 7.4 pounds.
2. Any of the connectors tested will immediately reduce the trigger pull from between 1.6 to 2 pounds, with no other changes made to the gun.
3. No connector that I tested will yield a 3.5# trigger pull by itself. Further changes need to be made to the gun.

I think I will stop right there with the conclusions to see what questions arise from this test.

Chris

View attachment Connector Test Results OEM.pdf
 
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#2 ·
Chris, first I commend you on an excellent thorough test of all the connectors. I believe your test only goes to prove what us Armorers have known for quite some time now. There is NO "drop in" 3.5# connector. I have been doing Glock actions for years now and there is NO magic pill, NO snake oil, NO lightened super-duper connector that will do the job all by it's self. And you have also shown what I have seen as well for years; the 5.5# factory trigger is also not a standard. Now all that said I will admit that the Gen 3 and especially Gen 4 Glocks just aren't the same as earlier models. Can these models be brought down to 3.5# trigger pulls? ABSOLUTELY, but it takes some time and work. I have been in contact with a spring manufacturer and if their schedule allows we are going to start looking at several variables. Things as simple as the number of turns, but then going into tensil strength, and wire diameter in various tensil strengths as well. Your test I personally believe goes to show the caliper of craftsman and gunsmith you are and I also think it goes to show why Glock.Pro is THE Glock forum for the true Glock owners.
 
#4 ·
Thank you, Chris! Excellent job on the connector test! Very thorough... This is an amazing amount of work, and we appreciate it... very helpful information. I'm going to "stick" this thread, also...

Interesting to see that some of your individual pulls with the Lyman gauge are as erratic as mine... I originally had an RCBS trigger pull gauge, but bought a Lyman digital gauge because I thought it would be more accurate. I have gone back to using the RCBS gauge as it is more consistent...

Trigger manufacturers seem to use the lowest position on the trigger to get their measurements... better leverage yields lower pull weights... which provides better advertising of course...

Found it interesting that your standard deviation got respectively smaller with each test... I'm assuming that the order you published the test in the .pdf file is the order you conducted them in. Wonder if you got more proficient as the test carried on. Might be interesting to change the order next time.

Did you manually test any of these connectors? Curious if any of them felt noticeably different... Break points, etc...

Still plan on testing out the Zev Tech v4 race connector? I've heard that they are a big improvement over their v3 connector... Hadn't heard about the polished version until you mentioned it, though...
 
#5 · (Edited)
..Interesting to see that some of your individual pulls with the Lyman gauge are as erratic as mine... I originally had an RCBS trigger pull gauge, but bought a Lyman digital gauge because I thought it would be more accurate. I have gone back to using the RCBS gauge as it is more consistent...

Trigger manufacturers seem to use the lowest position on the trigger to get their measurements... better leverage yields lower pull weights... which provides better advertising of course...

Found it interesting that your standard deviation got respectively smaller with each test... I'm assuming that the order you published the test in the .pdf file is the order you conducted them in. Wonder if you got more proficient as the test carried on. Might be interesting to change the order next time.

Did you manually test any of these connectors? Curious if any of them felt noticeably different... Break points, etc...

Still plan on testing out the Zev Tech v4 race connector? I've heard that they are a big improvement over their v3 connector... Hadn't heard about the polished version until you mentioned it, though...
You are most welcome, and thanks for the kind words, but to keep this in perspective I think spent about three hours on the whole thing, including the pictures. I'm retired, it's fun. Keeps me out of gun stores.

The main reason for using the Lyman instead of the RCBS gauge was the digital readout. I can interpret the RCBS markings differently, but it's hard to mis-read numbers. Also, I think the digital gauge is very sensitive, so it looks erratic when it's really just doing its job very well. It's twitchy by nature.

The order of the data presented was the order of the test, but I don't think that standard deviation really improved that much. I tried to include a graph from Excel, but it wouldn't display correctly, so here's a list of the Std Dev values in the order of the test:

.645, .240, .305, .245, .152, .225

Other than the big jump down from the Glock 5.5 test (.645), it looks pretty realistic to me, but it's hard to tell with a sample this small.

I did not manually test any of the connectors, I tried to keep this as objective as possible.

As for the Zev Tech v4? I will take their word for it, because their connector did yield the best results, and I would rather spend the $20 (including shipping) on some more primers. If somebody wants to loan me a Zev Tech v4, I will test it, of course.

Chris
 
#9 ·
Thanks for the effort Chris!
 
#13 ·
While I avoided going down the path of what it takes to get a 3.5# trigger in the test, I do agree that using a trigger kit will often get the job done. The Lone Wolf kit contains the parts that I think are absolutely critical to a light Glock trigger: the connector and the firing pin spring. The firing pin spring seems to be the point where most of the trigger pull resistance is generated (note that I wrote "seems to be"), and reducing that spring strength probably has more effect than any other single change on the road to a light trigger.

The trade-off, of course, is the risk of reducing reliability. If you reduce the power that the spring generates to push the firing pin into the primer, you increase the odds that once in a great while the gun won't fire. For those of us who are using Glocks for purposes other than self-defense, it seems that we can accept this slight reduction in reliability.

I'm glad that companies like Lone Wolf offer kits that do produce the desired effect: a light trigger. I'm sure their packaging has some warning about the light striker spring...it does, right?

Chris
 
#15 · (Edited)
My nephew put the ghost in his. I didn't really like how it felt. It no longer had what I'm going call the staging point to the stop then the crisp snap. it felt more like my LCR revolver. If I'm carful I can stop my LCR before it fires. I kind of felt that with the ghost. I wasn't sure where the stoping point was before the fire.

My question, do all of the so called 3.5 trigger bars, correction, connectors act this way. I like the stop then the feeling of glass braking but if that glass feel could be a bit lighter I'm all for it. I did not like the way the ghost connector felt and if they all feel like this I don't want to change mine.
 
#19 ·
My nephew is LEO and they work swing shifts. I'm not sure when he's days or nights. One of those family members I don't see much. I'm afraid of waking him.

So let me ask this. Will my trigger still have the dominate stopping point then the crisp snap like glass when it fires with less effort to get past the stopping point?
 
#20 ·
My nephew is LEO and they work swing shifts. I'm not sure when he's days or nights. One of those family members I don't see much. I'm afraid of waking him.

So let me ask this. Will my trigger still have the dominate stopping point then the crisp snap like glass when it fires with less effort to get past the stopping point?
I wouldn't wake him either!

If you just change the connector, I doubt that you will feel much other than a reduction in pull, honestly. It is very hard to quantify the subtle things that happen in a Glock trigger pull, but that does not keep the suppliers from making claims. I think that you can rely upon advice from other forum members about what trigger kits they have found to be successful.

My standard for a crisp break is a 1911 trigger, and that is very hard to achieve with a striker-fired gun like the Glock. There are complete trigger kits that will get you pretty close, but they can include a lot of parts:

1. "3.5#" connector, polished
2. trigger bar, polished, possibly with pre-travel reduced by pinning the trigger safety
3. heavy trigger spring
4. reduced power firing pin spring
5. trigger mechanism housing with an over-travel stop built in (or a Ghost Rocket connector that has to be fitted to the gun)
6. light firing pin safety spring
7. titanium firing pin safety
8. titanium striker

When you combine the effect of some or all of these parts, you can get a very light and often "crisp" trigger. You also get a trigger with reduced safety, because you have reduced trigger pull weight, reduced the effectiveness of the firing pin safety, and you have increased the admittedly slim likelihood of a light primer strike and failure to fire. For "competition guns" this might be acceptable, but for carry guns I would be wary.

I think I'll stop here and see if this is helping. If I don't stop I will just ramble on and maybe waste your time. If you have questions about the effect of any of the individual parts I have listed, please let me know and I'll do my best to answer.

Chris
 
#22 ·
First post - Awesome thread!!!

First post on this new (and great!) forum.

Chris you did an outstanding and very detailed comparison, and I don't think I've seen anything like this anywhere else. Great job and thanks for the info.

I was just wondering if you have gotten any other connectors in since then like any of the Ghost line of products, or newer versions of the ones you tested?

Thanks again for all your hard work!
 
#23 ·
First post on this new (and great!) forum.

Chris you did an outstanding and very detailed comparison, and I don't think I've seen anything like this anywhere else. Great job and thanks for the info.

I was just wondering if you have gotten any other connectors in since then like any of the Ghost line of products, or newer versions of the ones you tested?

Thanks again for all your hard work!
Dakota,

Thanks for the feedback, I appreciate your comments.

I don't have plans for any more testing unless a new crop of connectors shows up. The Ghost products have a good reputation, so if that's what you want, I would not hesitate to get one: I have installed several Ghost connectors with good results. Remember, there is a big difference between the Ghost and the Rocket. The Rocket requires fitting with a file to a particular gun, a Ghost 3.5 lb trigger connector does not.

Chris
 
#30 ·
then you can do this if you got time this will give the trigger a 2 lb pull
This technique is really re-engineering a critical part of the pistol: the geometry of the trigger. It's an interesting video, but I did not see a place where the claim for a 2 lb pull was made, perhaps I missed it. In any case, doing this work would clearly void the warranty, if that's of any importance. The warnings at the beginning of the video were important.

Chris
 
#31 ·
Personally I wouldn’t do it to a carry gun but the trigger job changes the fulcrum point of the trigger. As far as any warranty there really is none but MFG defects that can be claimed after the first year of ownership

the claim of a 2 lb trigger is in the disclaimer on the bottom of the video if you watch it on y-tube
 
#33 ·
As most Glock Armorers know Glock stands behind their product much longer than a year. I have in the past worked extensively on the trigger bar for a "Race gun". As several of the gunsmiths here know, actions such as that mess with the timing. Indeed it does and not in a favorable way. Going to a 2 lb. pull even in a Race gun is dangerous and strongly advised against.
 
#34 ·
That video is fairly new, but the concepts aren't... This procedure does change the leverage of the trigger by altering the fulcrum points on the trigger... Several of the custom trigger manufacturers use this method to create low trigger pulls and were initially unhappy with the original author for disclosing this information.

It is not a simple process... Small deviances from the original trigger bar dimensions can make large differences in the feel and workings of the trigger...

I've never tried this method because relocating the trigger is illegal in USPSA'a Production class and because I am happy with the trigger pull weight in my Glock 34...
 
#35 ·
Great work. I can't believe all the effort you put into this project.
Might be, as suggested, that the factory looks at the trigger rating farther down the trigger. You did seem to get consistently high results of almost two pounds except for one test. Question. I don't have your experience, however why not work the trigger spring? And the couple of NYPD trigger springs I looked at seem to have a crisper trigger pull. So why doesn't someone come out with a 5.5 and/or 3.5 pound NY style trigger spring instead of working the trigger bar? It would appear that this would maintain the current trigger travel for a smoother pull?
 
#36 · (Edited)
Thanks, it was a fun project.

I think that the trigger is most often pulled right through the middle, that's why I set the test up with the "wooden trigger finger", so that it would pull right in the middle. I agree, however, that you could get lighter pulls by pulling the trigger at the end.

The objective of the test was just to put down some data on the relative merits of some connectors. For that reason, I made no other changes to the gun.

The New York trigger springs work very differently from the Glock springs. Here is a chart that illustrates various combinations:

Rectangle Slope Font Parallel Pattern


While I do not understand all of the nuances of the trigger springs, I can tell you that the standard trigger spring pulls the trigger bar back and up slightly, keeping the trigger bar in firm contact with the connector. I think there's a point beyond which increasing that force would not be productive: too much drag would be induced. The aftermarket "heavy" trigger springs are usually marked something like "XP" (extra power), and while they claim to reduce trigger pull by "up to 1 pound", I have never been able to measure the difference. I haven't made it my life's work, but a few tests have shown me nothing.

It looks to me like the New York trigger springs (the orange and OD green ones in the illustration) work in a completely different manner than the standard spring. It looks like they are just intended to put a lot of extra resistance into the path of the trigger pull, and I know that they do this well. Very well. I would not describe their trigger pulls as "crisp", but one I measured before I replaced it had the trigger breaking at over 11 pounds, consistently. Remember, these are called "New York" trigger springs because the NYPD wanted to replicate the feel of a double-action police revolver in the Glock. Let's not even get into that kind of thinking, but that's what they wanted, and Glock was only too happy to oblige.

We work the trigger bar by polishing it, mainly, and that reduces friction, which improves trigger feel. But to reduce pull weight a lot, you need to address the spring you are stretching while you are pulling the trigger: the firing pin spring, also known as the striker spring. Pulling the trigger stretches that spring, so if you reduce the pull weight of the spring, you lighten the trigger a lot. The down side is that reducing the strength of the firing pin spring can cause light primer strikes and failure to fire. If the firing pin (which is an integral part at the end of the striker) is not going forward fast enough, it won't make the primer go "bang". To make the striker move faster, you can lighten the striker itself with either a drilled steel or a titanium part, and you will get some reliability back. The down side: titanium is not known for hard wearing in pistols. And aftermarket parts are expensive.

One other point, the connector change just changes the angle at which the trigger bar moves as it goes to the rear, on the way to releasing the striker. We polish the connector and trigger bar where they touch to make that feel smooth, but it's just a little geometry change in the connector that adds to trigger pull reduction.

And as long as we're talking about downsides, understand that I am basically "thrifty", and I have a hard time parting with over $100 for the little improvement you can really get in a Glock trigger, while maintaining safety. Everything you do to lighten the trigger in some way begins to compromise safety or reliability, or both. Read the warnings that come with all the trigger kits.

We could go on forever, so at the risk of becoming boring, let me ask if any of this is helpful, or if it even makes sense. Does it?

One other thought: if you haven't see this animation of a Glock, you might find it interesting:http://www.genitron.com/Basics/Interactive-Glock-Pistol

Chris
 
#37 ·
OK, Thanks.
First of all, if I am off base please say so. I'm learning.

I would never suggest changing the firing pin spring. Seems like that would cause a multitude of problems. I am trying to understand the relationships between the Connector, Trigger Spring,, and Firing Pin Spring. You need to, of course, pull the firing pin back and overcome the force of firing pin spring with the Trigger Bar. Beyond that there is the Trigger Spring and the Connector. The connector does not change any spring tension, however changes the apparent spring weight at the trigger by changing the mechanical advantage you have in overcoming the force of the Trigger Spring (and firing pin spring) to release the Firing Pin. It would seem the only way to do this is to change the angle of the ramp, which increases or decreases (slightly) the travel of the Trigger Bar as it releases the Firing Pin. In this way it changes the "apparent" weight of the Trigger Spring. If it operates in this manner the trigger pull must be affected by the Connector change (increase pull distance). The design of the ramp would also need to take into consideration the position of the firing pin lug to make sure it releases at the same position.
So my comment was to suggest that a change to a NY style Firing Spring, with a different spring rate, might maintain the same trigger feel and likely be more consistent due to its force being applied directly to the cruciform. The problem I have with this approach is that it would also appear that the standard Glock trigger spring arrangement, attaching to the front of the cruciform, may actually lower the trigger pull by assisting to pull back the trigger spring.

OK To make a long story longer. Can putting in a NY style trigger spring, of some weight, lower the trigger pull, or only increase it by eliminating the standard Glock spring mounting arrangement. In this manner you would not change the travel of the trigger pull. I can't believe I said all this during a football game.
Take care. Jim
 
#38 ·
OK, Thanks.
First of all, if I am off base please say so. I'm learning.

I would never suggest changing the firing pin spring. Seems like that would cause a multitude of problems. I am trying to understand the relationships between the Connector, Trigger Spring,, and Firing Pin Spring. .....OK To make a long story longer. Can putting in a NY style trigger spring, of some weight, lower the trigger pull, or only increase it by eliminating the standard Glock spring mounting arrangement. In this manner you would not change the travel of the trigger pull. I can't believe I said all this during a football game.
Take care. Jim
Jim,

I'm still trying to understand it all myself! Someday I'll buy a cutaway Glock, that will help.

In the meantime, putting a New York trigger spring in the gun only adds a lot of friction to the movement of the trigger bar. It will not reduce trigger pull weight, it will only increase it. The New York trigger spring acts in a completely different manner than the standard trigger spring: It PUSHES a plastic bar up against the trigger bar to induce friction (if I recall correctly, I don't have a NY spring to test with), pushing the bar against the connector. The standard spring PULLS the bar back and up against the connector.

Chris
 
#41 ·
I would rather that you purchase it and send it to me, and I'll of course return it. PM me for shipping address.

Thanks!

Chris
 
#42 · (Edited)
This is an update of the Connector Comparison test was done with a Glock G21SF pistol. This is a newly manufactured Gen3 pistol with a Gen4-style trigger bar (P/N 4256-1), an unmarked connector, and a trigger mechanism housing with an ejector marked 8196-2. Since the original test, the pistol has fired perhaps 100 rounds and been cleaned.

The connectors I tested were:

1. Glock standard connector as delivered in the G21SF
2. Glock "-" Connector
3. GlockTriggers Performance connector 3.5#
4. Lone Wolf Distributors 3.5# connector
5. Zev Tech V3 Race connector
6. Scherer 3.5# connector
7. Ghost EVO Elite (new)

The reason for the updated test is that one of our forum members, pintobronco, had good experience with a Ghost EVO Elite, and wanted to have it tested and included in the results. The member sent me the connector, I installed it, ran the test, and returned the connector to him.

The EVO (I'll just call it that for the sake of brevity), unlike any of the other connectors, required a bit of effort to install, since it needed to be trimmed with a file to fit the test gun.

After I installed a connector in the gun, I applied a drop of FP-10 lubricant to the place where the connector meets the trigger bar, and to the side of the trigger bar where it contacts the frame.

The test was be very simple: mount the Glock in a vise block to hold it steady, with the connector installed operate the slide and pull the trigger 20 times with a Lyman(R) electronic Trigger Pull Gauge, recording each reading individually. I then calculate the average of the 20 pull weights, along with standard deviation (just for the heck of it) using a Microsoft Excel worksheet.

The trigger was be pulled by pulling Lyman gauge directly against the middle of the face of the trigger and straight back. In order to get this to work consistently I had to replace the plastic roller on the trigger gauge with a wooden "finger tip" that I ground out of a piece of maple. It isn't pretty, but it fits over the trigger and centers itself, it pulls the trigger safety back, and it does not touch the frame at all when it is in position to pull the trigger back to the "break".

Here are photos of the new connector added to the test and results, the Ghost EVO Elite:

Hand tool Tool Household hardware Font Wood


Communication Device Bumper Automotive exterior Automotive design Portable communications device


Font Household hardware Fashion accessory Metal Titanium


Font Rectangle Metal Fashion accessory Household hardware


Here is the summary of the results. Details are available in an attached .pdf file.

MakeModelAvg Pull PoundsStd Dev
(20 pulls)
Retail PriceSource
Glock5.5 lb "standard"7.3920.645$4.50Glockmeister
Lone Wolf DistributorsLWD Connector 3.5 lb5.7910.240$14.95Lone Wolf Distributors
Glock4.5 lb "minus"5.5800.305$25.00Glockmeister
GlockTriggers3.5# Performance Connector5.5700.245$27.95GlockTriggers*
Scherer3.5 lb trigger pull connector5.5590.152$9.99MidwayUSA
Zev TechV3 Race Connector5.3770.225$15.00GlockWorx
GhostEVO Elite4.9930.300$36.95Ghost Inc.
* No longer sold as an individual part apparently
I included standard deviation of the measured pulls (in pounds) to demonstrate the consistency of the test results, meaning basically how close the measurement strings were. You can see this for yourself by looking at the test result details in the attached file. I will admit that the somewhat lumpy first test, using the Glock standard connector, probably has a higher standard deviation due to operator error: I probably did it myself. Things improved dramatically after that first test as you can see. If it wasn't operator error, it might have been due to the fact that the gun was brand new, and what we saw was first part of break-in.

Conclusions:

I cannot say with certainty that all of my conclusions will apply for all models of Glock pistols.

1. The standard trigger pull of a G21SF is about 7.4 pounds.
2. Any of the connectors tested will immediately reduce the trigger pull from between 1.6 to 2.4 pounds, with no other changes made to the gun.

Chris

View attachment Connector Test Results Update Summary.pdf
View attachment Connector Test Results Update OEM.pdf
 
#44 · (Edited)
Oops. I didn't measure the angle, and it is already in the return mail to pintobronco. Maybe he can measure it for us. Sorry about that.

Just for the heck of it, I printed the photo of the Glock "-" and EVO, and got the following measurements from the photo:

Glock "-": about 82º (originally measured at 80º)
Ghost EVO: about 76º

Since my measurement of the Glock connector from the photo is off, I would have to assume that there is some error in the EVO measurement as well. To really nail it down we'd have to get pintobronco to measure the EVO.

Also notice the design of the EVO, in order to get that kind of a radical angle, they completely redesigned the head of the connector.

Chris
 
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