Agreed but I also think I do it this way because of the fact I carried a 1911 for so long, and you aren't supposed to let them slam on an empty chamber.
Upon further examination, the spring apparently wasn't sitting right and the slide release was not staying in the down position. I took the pins back out and made sure it was seated properly. The bottom pin went in with no issue but the top pin seemed to be hitting the spring. I pushed the spring down slightly to let the pin clear and the firearm started functioning properly. With my recent issue with the slide lock, I'm a little leary of making sure all the pieces are working as designed.
WRT to the first part I quoted ...
Some will argue this is bad. Others say it's fine. I listen to LAV as he's the Godfather of the 1911 according to many and he says go for it. In the case of a re-load the chamber isn't empty anyway and LAV specifically says use the slide stop lever to drop the slide after a re-load.
WRT the second part I quoted ...
The top pin you speak of is generally finicky that way. The slide stop spring & lever is notorious for being in the way. I
always have to do the following ... put the spring in place then start the pin in gently, if met with resistance gently wiggle the spring/lever forward/back until the pin slides in all the way. Make sure the pin is in place good. It's the groove in the pin that actually holds the pin in place. The Gen4 G19 I have is a B!tC# to get back in. It is the most difficult of any GLOCK I've ever owned.