Ive thought about it a few times. Im just not sold on it. Aside from trigger control its just not the same as shootin 9mm, .40 cal or 357 sig.
Anyone looking into buying a 22LR conversion kit?
Much as I'm addicted to shooting, my budget is getting tight. One of the big reasons for getting a Glock was the fact that 2 places offer 22 conversion kits.
Anyone have one or planning to get one?
Anyone have one or planning to get one?
1 - 20 of 28 Posts
good luck finding one for sale. I cant seem to for my G26.
I don't have one, but I have shot one... The one I shot (Glock 19) worked very well... If it keeps you shooting, I say go for it...
The only thing is that they are pretty expensive...
The only thing is that they are pretty expensive...
The conversion is cheaper than buying a new 22 pistol most of the time. Also, you would still be practicing with the same lower. Trigger grip and what not. Ammo is a lot cheaper. The only downside is the upfront cost of the conversion but like I said that is generally cheaper than buying a new pistol. I say if you can then go for it
I got on the wait list for a kit from Tactical Solutions-- due to the backlog they don't anticipate sending one until spring 2011!!!
I know I won't learn recoil managment with the kit, but yes I'd get more trigger and grip mileage. Also good practice for shooting from cover, 1st shot from holster, muscle memory, weak arm/strong arm firing.
The kit from TS will be $350. Expensive but I think I'll get a lot of use. I did some ammo price comparisons from a local supplier, for 1000 rounds:
PMC 9mm Luger 155 gr FMJ $219
Remmington 22 LR subsonic 38 Gr HP $79.50
I'd have to shoot about 2500 22 LR rounds to "break even"
I know I won't learn recoil managment with the kit, but yes I'd get more trigger and grip mileage. Also good practice for shooting from cover, 1st shot from holster, muscle memory, weak arm/strong arm firing.
The kit from TS will be $350. Expensive but I think I'll get a lot of use. I did some ammo price comparisons from a local supplier, for 1000 rounds:
PMC 9mm Luger 155 gr FMJ $219
Remmington 22 LR subsonic 38 Gr HP $79.50
I'd have to shoot about 2500 22 LR rounds to "break even"
I got the AA conversion kit on gunbroker.com for my G26
I had to pay top dollar for it because of the auction format but it was worth it. You have to be a little careful of the ammunition you use since some .22 lr rounds will not power it.
I'm also looking at a Kel-tec PMR-30 for my wife so she will not monopolize my G26.
I had to pay top dollar for it because of the auction format but it was worth it. You have to be a little careful of the ammunition you use since some .22 lr rounds will not power it.
I'm also looking at a Kel-tec PMR-30 for my wife so she will not monopolize my G26.
I'm not a big fan of the 22lr, I think it get boring after a while. But lately i've been getting an email from a local gun store about a sale on the Issc M-22, which is a glock copy 22lr. its pretty cheap only 235.00. any of you guys have one of these? how is it?
http://www.riverviewsales.net/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=ISSCM-22&Category_Code=Specials
http://www.riverviewsales.net/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=ISSCM-22&Category_Code=Specials
The ISSC M-22
I had to send my AA conversion kit back to the factory for repair - wouldn't fire and had a swollen barrel. Very disappointed.
BUT the M-22 is a really great gun!
After reading reviews and comparing many options for .22 cal handguns, I finally settled on the ISSC M-22. here's a review http://www.gunblast.com/ISSC-M22.htm It looks and almost feels like a Glock 19.
I got it ($213 on gunbroker.com) for my wife's birthday. It is a really great gun and loads of fun (and cheap) to shoot. I took her to the range yesterday and we ran 100 rounds of CCI Mini Mags thru it. VERY accurate and very functional. I was, however, a bit perplexed about the best way to clean and lube it so I had written ISSC about my concern and when we got back from the range, there was a letter from the Director of Training. What great customer service!! With his permission, here are his suggestions for cleaning the M-22:
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]]
Sent: Wednesday, September 22, 2010 11:06 AM
To: [email protected]
Cc: [email protected]
Subject: Letter re: cleaning
Dear Bob,
I don't clean my M22s until they stop running reliably. Usually after about 300 to 500 rounds depending on the ammunition and how well the gun has been broken in. (This generally means how many rounds have been through the gun.) Here is how I clean my M22 pistols.
The first thing I do after removing the top end is remove the spring and wipe down the barrel. Next I prepare the inside of the barrel for cleaning. The grip frame and barrel, the lower end), are all one piece. I use one of the foam cleaners. Holding the gun so that the barrel is vertical, muzzle up, I shoot the foam into the barrel from the muzzle end until it starts to come out the chamber end. Next, I prop the lower end up against something so that the barrel is completely vertical, muzzle down. The idea is to prevent runoff into the action below. I let it sit in this position while I am working on the slide area. The foam will turn into a liquid and drain out the muzzle end.
To clean the top end I use a Q-tip to run inside the rails. This is the channel found on both sides at the bottom inner portion of the slide. If they are particularly dirty I will soak the Q-tip with Gun Scrub or an automotive Brake Cleaner and run it through the channel again. But, I never use the spray directly on the gun to flush out dirt. I also wipe out the inner surfaces of the slide. Once clean I put a drop of oil at 4 different points. These points are inside the frame rails. Two points opposite each other about 1/2 inch from the rear of the slide and about 1 inch from the front of the slide. Then I put the slide down on the bench upside down as I work on the top end.
Continuing with the top end I pick it up and hold it so that the barrel is vertical muzzle down. I wipe away the solvent from the chamber ramp and the areas surrounding it. I use a brass rod with a .22 cal brush through the barrel from the chamber side. Push all the way through and pull all the way out. If you are using a nylon bristled brush it is safe to use a scrubbing action inside the chamber area, (the rearward length of the barrel that holds the round). But, don't scrub so hard or unevenly so that the wire that supports the bristles contacts the bore.
To stop the solvent action from eating anything but the debris inside the barrel use the Gun Scrub or break cleaner. Attach the thin guide tube to the nozzle and push the tip into the chamber. This is the only time it is recommended to spray the gun. The cleaner should dry quickly but you can push through a dry patch to make sure. Check for debris sticking to the flat area around the chamber mouth. The edge of a piece of hard plastic is the best way to scrape away dirt and lead that can stick here.
Next, take a look at the hole where the firing pin shoots through the breech face. A plastic or metal pick can be used to pull out unburned powder if necessary. Take a look at the breech face itself. Surrounding the firing pin hole the surface is contoured to hold the rim of the cartridge. Use the metal or plastic pick to to clean the groove by running it around its edges. A nylon brush can also be helpful here.
Now I return to the top end and use a Q-tip to clear the frame rails just like I did the rails inside the slide. Before reassembly you may want to run a patch with a small drop of oil through the bore. This is recommended for any firearm that is going to be stored for a period of time.
After reassembly we recommend a drop of oil at the front edge of the barrel hood where it contacts the edge of the ejection port.
Also, pull back the slide and lock it open. Apply drop of oil to the outer surface of the barrel.
I have to tell you, Bob, writing it down was more work than doing it. I know it was not nearly as pleasant. I find cleaning guns to be very relaxing. It is also a good way to bond with the weapon. Please feel free to contact us again if you have any questions. Thanks for writing.
Roger Eckstine
Dir. of Training, ISSC Austria
He also sent a note about sighting it in. Let me know if you'd like a copy...
I had to send my AA conversion kit back to the factory for repair - wouldn't fire and had a swollen barrel. Very disappointed.
BUT the M-22 is a really great gun!
After reading reviews and comparing many options for .22 cal handguns, I finally settled on the ISSC M-22. here's a review http://www.gunblast.com/ISSC-M22.htm It looks and almost feels like a Glock 19.
I got it ($213 on gunbroker.com) for my wife's birthday. It is a really great gun and loads of fun (and cheap) to shoot. I took her to the range yesterday and we ran 100 rounds of CCI Mini Mags thru it. VERY accurate and very functional. I was, however, a bit perplexed about the best way to clean and lube it so I had written ISSC about my concern and when we got back from the range, there was a letter from the Director of Training. What great customer service!! With his permission, here are his suggestions for cleaning the M-22:
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]]
Sent: Wednesday, September 22, 2010 11:06 AM
To: [email protected]
Cc: [email protected]
Subject: Letter re: cleaning
Dear Bob,
I don't clean my M22s until they stop running reliably. Usually after about 300 to 500 rounds depending on the ammunition and how well the gun has been broken in. (This generally means how many rounds have been through the gun.) Here is how I clean my M22 pistols.
The first thing I do after removing the top end is remove the spring and wipe down the barrel. Next I prepare the inside of the barrel for cleaning. The grip frame and barrel, the lower end), are all one piece. I use one of the foam cleaners. Holding the gun so that the barrel is vertical, muzzle up, I shoot the foam into the barrel from the muzzle end until it starts to come out the chamber end. Next, I prop the lower end up against something so that the barrel is completely vertical, muzzle down. The idea is to prevent runoff into the action below. I let it sit in this position while I am working on the slide area. The foam will turn into a liquid and drain out the muzzle end.
To clean the top end I use a Q-tip to run inside the rails. This is the channel found on both sides at the bottom inner portion of the slide. If they are particularly dirty I will soak the Q-tip with Gun Scrub or an automotive Brake Cleaner and run it through the channel again. But, I never use the spray directly on the gun to flush out dirt. I also wipe out the inner surfaces of the slide. Once clean I put a drop of oil at 4 different points. These points are inside the frame rails. Two points opposite each other about 1/2 inch from the rear of the slide and about 1 inch from the front of the slide. Then I put the slide down on the bench upside down as I work on the top end.
Continuing with the top end I pick it up and hold it so that the barrel is vertical muzzle down. I wipe away the solvent from the chamber ramp and the areas surrounding it. I use a brass rod with a .22 cal brush through the barrel from the chamber side. Push all the way through and pull all the way out. If you are using a nylon bristled brush it is safe to use a scrubbing action inside the chamber area, (the rearward length of the barrel that holds the round). But, don't scrub so hard or unevenly so that the wire that supports the bristles contacts the bore.
To stop the solvent action from eating anything but the debris inside the barrel use the Gun Scrub or break cleaner. Attach the thin guide tube to the nozzle and push the tip into the chamber. This is the only time it is recommended to spray the gun. The cleaner should dry quickly but you can push through a dry patch to make sure. Check for debris sticking to the flat area around the chamber mouth. The edge of a piece of hard plastic is the best way to scrape away dirt and lead that can stick here.
Next, take a look at the hole where the firing pin shoots through the breech face. A plastic or metal pick can be used to pull out unburned powder if necessary. Take a look at the breech face itself. Surrounding the firing pin hole the surface is contoured to hold the rim of the cartridge. Use the metal or plastic pick to to clean the groove by running it around its edges. A nylon brush can also be helpful here.
Now I return to the top end and use a Q-tip to clear the frame rails just like I did the rails inside the slide. Before reassembly you may want to run a patch with a small drop of oil through the bore. This is recommended for any firearm that is going to be stored for a period of time.
After reassembly we recommend a drop of oil at the front edge of the barrel hood where it contacts the edge of the ejection port.
Also, pull back the slide and lock it open. Apply drop of oil to the outer surface of the barrel.
I have to tell you, Bob, writing it down was more work than doing it. I know it was not nearly as pleasant. I find cleaning guns to be very relaxing. It is also a good way to bond with the weapon. Please feel free to contact us again if you have any questions. Thanks for writing.
Roger Eckstine
Dir. of Training, ISSC Austria
He also sent a note about sighting it in. Let me know if you'd like a copy...
I enjoy shooting .22lr from time to time and it definitely is cheaper than centerfire. However, like some already said it can get boring fairly quickly.
There is something to be said about getting more trigger time and using your same lower (utilizing a conversion kit vs a dedicated .22lr pistol).
The recoil management issue really is a big deal though so don't dismiss that. I would suggest starting each range session with centerfire through your gun, switching to the .22lr kit for the bulk of your range session, then finishing with centerfire again. You need to always start and end with the "real" caliber.
I have had a couple of conversion kits for 1911s in the past and one for my AR. I did enjoy shooting them but just found I really spent more time shooting them in their "real" calibers and eventually sold all my kits. I can't recall what they financed but I'm sure it was worth it at the time.
I've never used an AA kit so I can't speak on them. However, I have used TacSol kits for my 1911 and AR. Both were excellent quality and were amazingly accurate and reliable. They are pricey but that is the only route I would take if I decided to do another kit. Check that ... I might try a Spike's kit for an AR. They are supposed to be GTG.
I do have a dedicated .22lr pistol (a BuckMark) that I love shooting. It makes a great host for a can.
There is something to be said about getting more trigger time and using your same lower (utilizing a conversion kit vs a dedicated .22lr pistol).
The recoil management issue really is a big deal though so don't dismiss that. I would suggest starting each range session with centerfire through your gun, switching to the .22lr kit for the bulk of your range session, then finishing with centerfire again. You need to always start and end with the "real" caliber.
I have had a couple of conversion kits for 1911s in the past and one for my AR. I did enjoy shooting them but just found I really spent more time shooting them in their "real" calibers and eventually sold all my kits. I can't recall what they financed but I'm sure it was worth it at the time.
I've never used an AA kit so I can't speak on them. However, I have used TacSol kits for my 1911 and AR. Both were excellent quality and were amazingly accurate and reliable. They are pricey but that is the only route I would take if I decided to do another kit. Check that ... I might try a Spike's kit for an AR. They are supposed to be GTG.
I do have a dedicated .22lr pistol (a BuckMark) that I love shooting. It makes a great host for a can.
I've looked into getting one for training purposes. I even sold a pistol to finance getting one, but they were on back order, and I ended up purchasing something different.
That was me too. I kind of regret that I sold that pistol I bought from you to fund your AA kit. It was nice ... I just needed a host for a can and didn't want to pay to have it threaded.I've looked into getting one for training purposes. I even sold a pistol to finance getting one, but they were on back order, and I ended up purchasing something different.
Yup. Pestered me for weeks to buy it. I finally gave in and sold you. Couldn't get the conversion, and by the end of the week I got an email from the person you sold it to inquiring about it...That was me too. I kind of regret that I sold that pistol I bought from you to fund your AA kit. It was nice ... I just needed a host for a can and didn't want to pay to have it threaded.
I purchased an Advantage Arms conversion kit for my Glock 21sf. I've had it about a month. It is totally reliable with Remington Golden bullets or CCI mini mags. It mimics the Glock in form & function & is extremely accurate. I was on the list for a conversion kit for my 27, but cancelled it after receiving the 21 kit. I now wish I'd stayed on the list...Oh Well.
I have the G26 conversion kit
I had some trouble with the kit functioning with CCI Mini-Mag 36 grain hollow points. Looking at the slide very carefully, I noted an indent on the breech face that looked like the firing pin was striking the face rather than the casing; also noted that the barrel was a bit "swollen" near the muzzle end. I sent the kit back to AA for repair and they exchanged the magazines, replaced the firing pin assembly and told me that the indent was purposely machined in the breech face and the barrel was purposely machined to be a little wider at the muzzle end (see my sheepish look
)
They suggested that I should use the 40 grain CCI Mini-Mag roundnose instead. I'm going to check it out tomorrow. Good customer service.
I had some trouble with the kit functioning with CCI Mini-Mag 36 grain hollow points. Looking at the slide very carefully, I noted an indent on the breech face that looked like the firing pin was striking the face rather than the casing; also noted that the barrel was a bit "swollen" near the muzzle end. I sent the kit back to AA for repair and they exchanged the magazines, replaced the firing pin assembly and told me that the indent was purposely machined in the breech face and the barrel was purposely machined to be a little wider at the muzzle end (see my sheepish look
)They suggested that I should use the 40 grain CCI Mini-Mag roundnose instead. I'm going to check it out tomorrow. Good customer service.
The AA conversin kit now works like a charm! rapid service from AA and the change in firing pin assembly and update of magazines has done the job and it is now very functional. I used the 40 gr round nosed CCI Mini Mags and had no problems. My faith is restored! This is a fun kit.
Saw a AA kit on GlockTalk classifieds this morning for G19/23 size pistols for $300. I do not know the seller and have no additional info. I just saw it and know they are often hard to find. Figured I would give you guys a heads up. Buyer beware though. Again, I am NOT vouching for the product or the seller.
That's more than retail for a new one.Saw a AA kit on GlockTalk classifieds this morning for G19/23 size pistols for $300. I do not know the seller and have no additional info. I just saw it and know they are often hard to find. Figured I would give you guys a heads up. Buyer beware though. Again, I am NOT vouching for the product or the seller.
thanks for the heads up, vg. I'm on the waitlist for the tactical solutions kit. I was told mine won't be available until summer 2011 or later (!)
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